Difference between revisions of "HyperSync"

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{{Fast Page}}
 
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This section only talks about HyperSync.  Read the section on [Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync] to learn more about the difference between HyperSync and High Speed Sync.
 
  
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HyperSync enables a PocketWizard-connected flash to trigger at a precise moment just *before* the camera triggers a sync pulse.  Since you are "triggering faster than a wire" with HyperSync, you can sync at shutter speeds faster than X-sync and get more usable flash energy in your image.  HyperSync pushes the boundaries of camera and flash technology to the extreme, and it is limited to the capabilities of the cameras and flashes involved.  Some HyperSync results include artifacts like clipping or gradation, and these may or may not suit your style of photography.  The combinations of flash, camera, and photographer taste means that each situation is unique.
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On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.  
  
  
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Here are some examples of the differences between X-Sync and HyperSync using a Canon 5D Mark II and an Elinchrom Ranger RX with an S-head.
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In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
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<br/>
  
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[[File:IMG 4812.JPG|thumb|X-sync triggers far too late for usable sync. Shutter speed: 1/8000]]
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==What is HyperSync?==
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Triggering with a flash above X-Sync via a sync cord yields unacceptable results.
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Using HyperSync, the flash is triggered at a precisely calculated moment to allow light from the flash to make it to the sensor even though the shutter speed is very fast.
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[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]
  
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There are two kinds of HyperSync appealing to different styles or needs of photography.
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HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-sync while using studio strobes.
  
  
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===Reduced Clipping===
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Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.
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[[File:IMG 0282.JPG|thumb|Reduced Clipping keeps black bars out of the frame, but has a gradient.  Shutter speed: 1/8000]]
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If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level, how it differs from HSS, and an in-depth look at how these features work, please visit the following page:  
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Reduced Clipping uses precision timing to keep hard black bars out of your images. This method may result in a gradation across the image (lighter at the bottom and darker at the top), but for many situations, the results are quite acceptable and useable.  Reduced Clipping benefits photographers:
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**Shooting outdoors where the sky is a major factor in the top part of the image
 
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**Using aperture priority in conditions that cause the shutter speed to go above X-sync
 
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**In any situation where the full frame must be used and cropping is not an option
 
  
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===Highest Energy===
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* [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]  
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[[File:IMG 4015.JPG|thumb|Highest Energy puts more light on the scene with less gradient, but there may be black bars.  Shutter speed: 1/8000]]
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Highest Energy uses precision timing to get as much flash energy into the image as possible above X-sync.  This will reduce gradation, but can result in black bars or clipping in the frame.  For many photographic situations this can yield acceptable or useful results as clipping can be cropped out of the image.  Highest Energy benefits photographers:
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**Needing as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, '''longer''' flash durations are better)
 
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**Gathering images where gradation is not acceptable
 
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**In any situation where cropping is an option
 
  
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The steps below will get you working with HyperSync quickly for any ControlTL-capable camera. 
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==HyperSync Setup==
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[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]
  
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Here are some examples of white wall HyperSync performance for specific camera and flash combinations.  More combinations will be coming in the future!   
 
  
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Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see what is happening in the harshest and most clinical conditions for HyperSync.  White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions.    We present the white wall images because it is impossible to recreate every real-world situation photographically, nor can every photographer’s level of acceptability be captured scientifically.
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HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.
  
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{{C HATT}}
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Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.
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{{N HATT}}
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{{Don't see your gear?}}
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To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:
  
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== Configuring HyperSync ==
 
  
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Using a transmitting MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 on your camera, follow the instructions below for your specific receiving PocketWizard radio and then take pictures normally.
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* [[HyperSync_Setup|HyperSync Setup]]
  
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===[[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]]===
 
  
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* For the most consistent results with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 that is on top of your camera to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the HyperSync/HSS Tab and check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."
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1. On the receiving FlexTT5, select the flash connected to the AC9 AlienBees Adapter in the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] of the [[PocketWizard Utility]] in the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#AC9 Flash|"AC9 Flash" dropdown menu.]]
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==When to Use HyperSync==
  
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2. Make sure you choose [[HyperSync#Reduced Clipping|"Reduced Clipping"]] or [[HyperSync#Highest Energy|"Highest Energy"]] depending on which method of HyperSync you want to employ.
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HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.
  
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3. Click "Apply Changes."
 
  
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4. Attach the transmitting MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 to your camera.
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===Freezing Action===
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[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with  PowerST4s for this photograph.]]
  
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5. Connect the receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter to the flash and take pictures normally.  
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The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.
  
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As of this firmware release, HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Paul C. Buff flashes:
 
  
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<div align="center">
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{| border="1" class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
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|-
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|AlienBees AB400
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|White Lightning X800
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|Zeus 1250
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|-
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|AlienBees AB800
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|White Lightning X1600
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|-
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|AlienBees AB1600
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|White Lightning X3200
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|
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|-
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|AlienBees ABR800 RingFlash
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|White Lightning Ultra1200
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|}
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</div>
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If your flash is connected to an AC9 AlienBees adapter and is not in the list above, try selecting a flash of a similar power level.
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===Overpowering the Sun===
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[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]
  
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===[[PowerMC2]]===
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When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.
  
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* For the most consistent results with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 that is on top of your camera to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the HyperSync/HSS Tab and check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."
 
  
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1. Attach the transmitting MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 to your camera.
 
  
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2. Connect the PowerMC2 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]], navigate to the "HyperSync" tab and choose "Reduced Clipping" or "Highest Energy" depending on which method of HyperSync you want to employ.
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<br clear=all>
  
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3. Click "Apply Changes"
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===More Power===
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[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver.  You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge.  No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]
  
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4. Connect the receiving PowerMC2 to the flash.
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Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power.  This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.
  
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5. Take pictures!
 
  
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''Note that the Einstein E640 Flash is an IGBT-controlled flash, and has an extremely short flash duration once set to anything less than full power. As such, the Einstein will see best HyperSync performance when used at full power.''
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<br clear=all>
  
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===[[PowerST4]]===
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==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
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[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
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[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]
  
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For most consistent results with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 that is on top of your camera to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the HyperSync/HSS Tab and check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."
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One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?”  We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.
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1. Attach the transmitting MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 to your camera.
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Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs.  
  
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2. Connect the PowerST4 to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the "HyperSync" tab and choose "Reduced Clipping" or "Highest Energy" depending on which method of HyperSync you want to employ.
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You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting the page below:
  
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3. Click on the [[Misc Tab]] and select which type of flash head you are using with your pack. You can also select what kind of Elinchrom flash you are using from the "Flash Model" selection.  
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* [[Clipping and Gradient]].
  
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4. Click "Apply Changes"
 
  
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5. Connect the receiving PowerST4 to the flash.
 
  
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6. Take pictures!
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{{C HATT}}
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{{N HATT}}
  
  
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{{Don't see your gear?}}
  
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At present, HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Elinchrom flashes:
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<br clear=all>
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<div align="center">
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{| border="1" class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
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!colspan=3 |Elinchrom Flashes
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|-
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|Style 300RX
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with Digital S Head
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|Ranger RX<br>with Ranger S Head
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|-
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|Style 600RX
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with Digital SE Head
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|Ranger RX<br>with Ranger A Head
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|-
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|Style 1200RX
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with Mini A Head
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|Ranger RX Speed<br>with Ranger S Head
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|-
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|
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with Mini S Head
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|Ranger RX Speed<br>with Ranger A Head
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|-
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|
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with A3000 Head
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|Ranger RX Speed A/s<br>with Ranger S Head
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|-
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|
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|Digital 1200RX or Digital 2400RX<br>with A6000 Head
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|Ranger RX Speed A/s<br>with Ranger A Head
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|}
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</div>
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If your flash is connected to a PowerST4 and is not in the list above, set the remote ControlTL radio to receive on a Standard Channel and configure HyperSync using the HyperSync Transmitter Controls, as described below. Make sure to disable High Speed Sync from the transmitting radio.
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=== FlexTT5 - Flash Connected to P2 Port ===
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* For most consistent results with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 that is on top of your camera to the PocketWizard Utility, navigate to the HyperSync/HSS Tab and check "HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)" and click "Apply Changes."
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−
 
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1. Connect your receiving FlexTT5 that will be attached to the remote flash to the [[PocketWizard Utility]], select the “P2 HyperSync Flash Duration” dropdown menu under the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] and choose a duration to match the estimated flash duration of your strobe.
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2. Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to your flash, and power on the flash, then the FlexTT5.
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3. Attach the transmitting MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 to your camera.
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4. Take pictures normally.
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5. If you're seeing clipping at the bottom of the frame, try repeating step #1 with a different value for best results.
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=== PocketWizard Radio Receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] ===
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([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash
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1. Connect the transmitting FlexTT5 or MiniTT1 that will be on top of your camera to the [[PocketWizard Utility]].
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2. Navigate to the [[HyperSync/HSS tab]], check the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disably HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]] checkbox.
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3. Choose a value from the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels 1 (FAST) to 10 (SLOW)|"HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels"]] drop down menu.
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4. Click "Apply Changes"
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5. Connect your receiving [[Plus II]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or turn on your flash and set the internal PocketWizard receiver to the same Standard Channel as your transmitter.
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6. Take pictures as normal!
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7. If you're seeing clipping at the bottom of the frame, try repeating step #1 with a different value for best results.
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Latest revision as of 11:28, 20 May 2015

Next recommended reading: High Speed Sync


On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.


In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.

What is HyperSync?

Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-sync while using studio strobes.


Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level, how it differs from HSS, and an in-depth look at how these features work, please visit the following page:




HyperSync Setup

Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”


HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters (MiniTT1 and FlexTT5), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the HyperSync/HSS Tab located in the PocketWizard Utility to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:




When to Use HyperSync

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.


Freezing Action

2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.

The ability to use flash above your cameras X-Sync (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.



Overpowering the Sun

Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.



More Power

Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between HSS and HyperSync is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.



HyperSync Performance with your Camera

Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8
Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.


Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs.

You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting the page below:


Canon Camera HyperSync Results
Canon 1D X Canon 7D Canon 70D Canon Rebel T5i (700D)
Canon 1D Mark IV Canon 6D Canon 60D Canon Rebel T5 (1200D)
Canon 1Ds Mark III Canon 5D Mark III Canon 50D Canon Rebel SL1 (650D)
Canon 1D Mark III Canon 5D Mark II Canon 40D Canon Rebel T4i (650D)
Canon 1Ds Mark II Canon 5D Canon 30D Canon Rebel T3i (600D)
Canon 1D Mark II N Canon 20D Canon Rebel T3 (110D)
Canon 1D Mark II Canon Rebel T2i (550D)
Canon Rebel T1i (500D)
Canon Rebel XSi (450D)
Canon Rebel XTi (400D)
Canon Rebel XT (350D)
Canon Rebel XS (1000D)
Nikon Camera HyperSync Results
Nikon D4S Nikon D810 Nikon D7100 Nikon Df
Nikon D4 Nikon D800 Nikon D7000
Nikon D3x Nikon D800E Nikon D5300* Nikon D90
Nikon D3s Nikon D700 Nikon D5200* Nikon D80
Nikon D3 Nikon D610 Nikon D5100* Nikon D40x*
Nikon D2x Nikon D600 Nikon D5000* Nikon D40*
Nikon D300s Nikon D3300*
Nikon D300 Nikon D3200*
Nikon D200 Nikon D3100*
Nikon D3000*

* These cameras do not support HyperSync or HSS/FP-Sync operation: D5300, D5200, D5100, D5000, D3300, D3200, D3100, D3000, D40x, D40


Don't see your gear?
We have paused our HyperSync testing and PDF production for the time being. We may be adding more results to the wiki as they become available. Check back in the future.


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