Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync - Revision history

Heathers: completely revamped intro with more explanation and added it as its own category

2021-01-03T18:56:06Z

completely revamped intro with more explanation and added it as its own category

Patrick at 13:30, 6 August 2014

2014-08-06T13:30:57Z

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

2013-09-20T15:29:53Z

‎Use with IGBT-controlled strobes

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

2013-08-29T18:58:58Z

‎Use with IGBT-controlled strobes

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

2013-08-22T21:22:03Z

‎Use with IGBT-controlled strobes

Chris: /* Factors to consider */

2013-08-22T21:02:35Z

‎Factors to consider

Chris at 18:23, 8 July 2013

2013-07-08T18:23:38Z

Chris at 20:29, 26 June 2013

2013-06-26T20:29:54Z

Chris at 20:23, 26 June 2013

2013-06-26T20:23:45Z

Chris: /* Highest Energy */

2013-06-26T20:22:46Z

‎Highest Energy

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-When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.
+==What is Flash Sync?==
+Adding flash to your photography can dramatically impact your images. Relying on natural light is nice for some images but the ability to place the light where you want it can take your photography to new levels. The ability to "put the sun where you want it" when it's a cloudy day, adding a backlight to a portrait to make the subject "pop", or even just adding a tiny bit of fill flash to illuminate a dark spot can improve your images and create an entirely new look.
-While the flash appears instantaneous to our eyes, it actually has duration and variance. These are important to the camera’s sensor, especially at faster shutter speeds.
-At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.
+===X-Sync===
-At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor.  At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.
+At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the second curtain starts to close before the first curtain is fully out of the way. The shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor, like a copier, and the sensor never fully exposed at one time. At these shutter speeds, you may be able to use other flash techniques to properly sync the flash.
-High Speed Sync (HSS or Auto-FP sync) begins pulsing the flash before the first curtain opens and continues to pulse it until after the second curtain closes. From the camera’s perspective this pulsed light appears as continuous light during the exposure. HSS uses a lot of energy, however, which means there is less light available for the image, and is usually only available in lower powered Speedlites/Speedlights. Syncing up to 1/8000 is possible, but the flash must be very close to the subject.
+To perform HSS, the camera must be able to send the specific timing information to start and stop the pulsing and the flash must be able to perform the pulsing. HSS was originally limited to speedlights though some strobes now have the ability to perform the special function. HSS requires TTL communication both from the camera and to the flash. It is typically only available within a closed manufacturing system, for example, a Nikon camera can use Nikon's CLS to trigger FP Sync in a Nikon flash but it cannot trigger HSS in a Godox strobe. The PocketWizard ControlTL radios can be used for HSS with compatible Nikon and Canon cameras and their respective speedlights. Please see the [[#High_Speed_Sync|'''High Speed Sync''']] section below for more details.
-HyperSync uses a normal flash of light, which has much more energy in it compared to pulsed HSS. HyperSync also uses precision timing to align the flash’s duration and output curve with the moving shutter curtains. This allows more light in the image than HSS can provide, and works with higher powered flashes like studio flash packs and monolights. Different flash and camera combinations yield different shutter speed and light output performance, but most combinations will get worthwhile benefits using HyperSync.
+For most HyperSync applications, you can use both the main burst of the initial flash as well as the 'fade down' from the pack to cover the sensor. The 'fade down' may show as a gradient shadow in the image, almost like a graduated neutral density filter. If you are shooting outside in bright light, you may even be able to use the gradient to your advantage. You should be able to find the duration of your flash in the flash's instruction manual. Changing power levels on the flash will also change the flash duration. Most (but not all) flashes have the longest duration at full power.
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-=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===
+== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ==
 Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

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 __TOC__
-<br />
-{{Fast Page}}
-<br />
 When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:29, 20 September 2013
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−	*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash will need to be used at full power with HyperSync. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.	+	*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash will need to be used at full power with HyperSync. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control.
		+
		+	To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:58, 29 August 2013
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−	*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash ~~used for HyperSync~~ will need to be used at full power. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.	+	*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash will need to be used at full power with HyperSync. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

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 File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
 File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
-File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
+File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
 File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
 </gallery></center>

@@ Line 283: / Line 283: @@
 File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Highest Power
 File:Ranger_RX_S-Head_1.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Lowest Power
 </gallery></center>

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-At shutter speeds slower than X-Sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.
+At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.
-At shutter speeds faster than X-Sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor.  At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.
+At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor.  At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.
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-A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-Sync limit.
+A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.
 [[File:X-SyncShutter.gif|center]]
-<center>A simulated shutter at X-Sync</center>
+<center>A simulated shutter at X-sync</center>
-Shutter speeds above X-Sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.
+Shutter speeds above X-sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.
 [[File:MediumShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
-<center>A simulated shutter above X-Sync]</center>
+<center>A simulated shutter above X-sync]</center>
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 <center>Faster shutter speeds have smaller slits</center>
-== X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==
+== X-sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==
 === A flash directly connected to a camera ===
-Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-Sync limit.
+Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.
-A camera triggering a flash at X-Sync follows this timeline:
+A camera triggering a flash at X-sync follows this timeline:
 # The shutter button is pressed.
@@ Line 101: / Line 101: @@
-<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-Sync">
+<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-sync">
 File:X-sync_shutter_sequence.JPG|Shutter Sequence at X-sync
 File:5DMarkII_1.200.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/200th f/22. This is a photo of a white wall to demonstrate no clipping or gradation.
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-Shutter speeds above X-Sync work differently.  A camera triggering a flash above X-Sync follows this timeline:
+Shutter speeds above X-sync work differently.  A camera triggering a flash above X-sync follows this timeline:
 #The shutter button is pressed.
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 #Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
 #The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
-#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-Sync.)
+#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-sync.)
 #The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
 #The moving slit is exposed to the flash.
@@ Line 120: / Line 120: @@
-When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-Sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.
+When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.
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-The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-Sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-Sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-Sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.
+The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.
 The PlusX, Plus III, or MultiMAX have a mode to reduce this delay, called [[Transmit Only]]. A receiving Plus III can use [[FAST mode]] to reduce processing time.
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-High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-Sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-Sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.
+High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.
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-Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync  with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-Sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php
+Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync  with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php
@@ Line 235: / Line 235: @@
 Highest Energy benefits photographers:
-*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-Sync
+*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-sync
 *Who need as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, longer flash durations are better)
 *Where gradation is not acceptable
@@ Line 248: / Line 248: @@
-Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync  with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-Sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php
+Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync  with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

@@ Line 244: / Line 244: @@
 *You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
-* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]]-style HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
+* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
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-'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] section for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''
+'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''
 === Factors to consider ===