PocketWizard Wiki - User contributions [en]

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2014-01-30T21:28:29Z

Chris: /* Variable Voltage Control */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

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<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX S-Head 1.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and almost all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors. Notice how this graph looks similar to the ones above.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2 power">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/2 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_half_timing.JPG|580EX II at 1/2 power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

Status LED

2013-09-20T17:59:31Z

Chris: /* Normal Operation */

{{recommended reading|Channels|}}

The Status LED indicates that the unit is powered on, and displays battery level and other special status modes.

== Normal Operation ==

Under normal operation the LED will display a short green blink every 2 seconds. This is the normal “powered on and waiting for trigger” blink.

;LED Blink:
1 <span style="color:green;">Green</span> blink = More than 50% remaining

2 <span style="color:orange;">Amber</span> blinks = Warning – less than 50% remaining

3 <span style="color:red;">Red</span> blinks = Less than 25% remaining – change immediately

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FlexTT5 "Good Battery" Blink[[File:Example.jpg]]

See the [[Batteries]] section for more information.

== Triggering ==

A pulsing red LED in sync with TEST or a camera trigger indicates normal transmission.

== Learn Mode ==

If TEST is held for 10 seconds, LEARN mode will be activated. See [[Learn Mode]] for information. A short red blink in sync with the camera’s trigger indicates normal transmission or reception.

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Learning LED sequence: Holding TEST for 10 seconds will cause the unit to pulse red (continuously transmitting), then it will flash amber 4 times (indicating the beginning of Learn mode), then it will pulse
amber while listening for a channel to learn. If it learns a channel, it will blink green 1, 2, or 3 times
depending on the channel learned, then flash amber 1 more time to indicate LEARN is complete. If no
channels are learned, the radio returns to normal “waiting for trigger” blinking. See LEARN Mode for
more information.

== Error Condition ==
Repeated red blinking indicates an error condition. Power off the unit, reseat all connections, and power back on. If the error persists, verify your settings. For example if you are using a Standard channel to trigger a FlexTT5 with a Speedlite in it set to E-TTL, this is an error. The flash needs to be set to manual (See [[Manual Mode]] for more information).
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A normal green blink occurs on power up initialization and after [[Apply Settings]] has been pressed in the [[PocketWizard Utility]].

''Note that a single red blink when triggering is normal operation.''

== Reset ==

If TEST is held on power up then RESET A and RESET B can be performed. Two green blinks in a row indicate that RESET A was completed. Four green blinks in a row appear when RESET B has been completed. RESET A resets channels learned in the field back to those programmed via the PocketWizard Utility. RESET B sets the radio to factory default settings.
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Batteries

2013-09-20T17:57:36Z

Chris: /* MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Status LED */

{{recommended reading|Status LED|}}

Some PocketWizard radios require batteries.

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'''CAUTION'''

'''Turn OFF your equipment (PocketWizard units, electronic flash units, cameras, etc.) before making connections or changing batteries.'''

==Battery Chemistry==

FlexTT5s will operate reliably using just about any pair of ~1.5 volt AA batteries, regardless of the type of battery chemistry. Alkaline, lithium, nickel metal hydride, nickel cadmium, and other battery chemistrys may vary somewhat in total life expectancy, but all are compatible. PocketWizard radios will report the most accurate remaining battery life using Alkaline batteries, since other chemistrys have a slightly different voltage discharge curve, which is how the remaining life is measured.

Regardless of the particular battery chemistry, the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 regulate the batter power which gives excellent performance throughout the entire life of the batteries. The unit will continue to function normally until the batteries are nearly exhausted.

The voltage regulation in our radios is very efficient. There is usually only a small benefit when using lithium (non-rechargeable) batteries. Lithium batteries are designed for the quick burst high current draw found in cameras and portable flash devices. Expect only a 10-20% longer battery life (approximate) over alkaline batteries when using lithium batteries.

== FlexTT5, Canon or Nikon ==
[[File:FlexTT5 Battery Polarity.jpg|thumb|300px|Note proper polarity]]

Install 2 fresh AA (IEC:LR6) batteries into the FlexTT5 Transceiver. Make sure to note proper polarity.

Alkaline batteries are recommended. Rechargeable or other chemistry batteries will also work, though life expectancy may vary.

Life expectancy = approximately 60 hours with alkaline batteries.
{{clear}}

== MiniTT1, Canon or Nikon ==
[[File:MiniTT1_Battery_Polarity.jpg|thumb|300px|Note proper polarity]]

The MiniTT1 saves batteries by automatically entering an extremely low power state when the camera enters sleep mode, or if not on a camera and TEST is not pressed for 10 seconds.

Install a fresh CR2450 coin cell battery into the MiniTT1 Transmitter. Make sure to note proper polarity. When the battery is in the radio, you should be able to see the + sign.

Life expectancy varies based on usage profile, as well as camera and flash models. When using a CR2450:
* Canon MiniTT1 = 100’s of hours/thousands of triggers
* Nikon MiniTT1 = approximately 30 hours of camera awake time

[[Basic Trigger Mode]] consumes the coin cell battery more quickly and is not recommended when using the MiniTT1 for Nikon on a Nikon camera, or when using the MiniTT1 for Canon on a Canon camera.

Low temperature can significantly affect coin cell performance. Always use fresh batteries in cold temperatures. Make sure to read the [[Safety Warnings]] about temperature.
{{clear}}

== MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Status LED ==

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Look at the normal [[Status LED]] blink to determine battery level, or use the PocketWizard Utility.

;LED Blink:
1 <span style="color:green;">Green</span> blink = More than 50% remaining

2 <span style="color:orange;">Amber</span> blinks = Warning – less than 50% remaining

3 <span style="color:red;">Red</span> blinks = Less than 25% remaining – change immediately

These battery levels are tuned for alkaline batteries in the FlexTT5 and a standard Lithium coin cell
in the MiniTT1. Other battery chemistries can work, but their battery level may not be reported
accurately.

'''Please note:''' The LED battery level blinks are based on the discharge curve and voltages of standard Alkaline batteries. Those are the most common and most predictable. Rechargeables have slightly different voltages, very different discharge curves, and, considering the different chemistries and aging of the batteries, are less predictable from the LED's perspective. It would be nearly impossible for us to make an LED battery level blink that accommodated all chemistries and aging of rechargeables.

You can still use your rechargeable batteries, but you need to build your own mental map of how they perform over time. If your rechargeables last 20 hours, then plan accordingly. If they blink amber when fully charged, then work with that information. If they only last a few hours when the LED blinks red, then use that information. The radios will reliably measure the voltages, but the LED colors and blinks will have different meanings for your batteries relative to alkalines.

The radios will continue to work reliably and consistently until the batteries are exhausted. They are low current draw devices, and take very little power from the batteries to operate. They will have the same range and performance when the LED is green, amber or red. At the very end of the batteries life (LED has been red for a while) they might begin to have issues depending on how well the batteries recover at low voltage, but up until that very end point they should operate identically shot to shot.

== MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Battery Meter in the PocketWizard Utility ==

To see your battery level in the PocketWizard Utility, make sure your MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 are turned on (set to C.1 or C.2) before you connect the USB cable. Hover your mouse cursor over the battery icon to get an exact voltage and battery status.

== Storage ==

For all PocketWizard products,the storage temperature range, without batteries, is above -30° C (-22° F) and below 85° C (185° F).

'''Always remove batteries during storage.'''

== Battery Warnings ==

WARNING – To avoid battery leakage, follow these guidelines:

* Always remove the batteries when the unit is not in use for extended periods of time, or during shipping or long distance travel.

* Never mix old and new batteries. Always use a fresh pair of matched batteries.

* Always change batteries promptly at the first indication of low battery operation.

* Do not use or leave the unit in extreme temperature or humid environments.

[[Category:MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|1]]

Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync

2013-09-20T15:29:53Z

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

{{recommended reading|HyperSync|}}

'''This section describes how HyperSync and High Speed Sync work at a basic level. Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync for your configuration.'''

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<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.

While the flash appears instantaneous to our eyes, it actually has duration and variance. These are important to the camera’s sensor, especially at faster shutter speeds.

At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.

At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor. At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.

High Speed Sync (HSS or Auto-FP sync) begins pulsing the flash before the first curtain opens and continues to pulse it until after the second curtain closes. From the camera’s perspective this pulsed light appears as continuous light during the exposure. HSS uses a lot of energy, however, which means there is less light available for the image, and is usually only available in lower powered Speedlites/Speedlights. Syncing up to 1/8000 is possible, but the flash must be very close to the subject.

HyperSync uses a normal flash of light, which has much more energy in it compared to pulsed HSS. HyperSync also uses precision timing to align the flash’s duration and output curve with the moving shutter curtains. This allows more light in the image than HSS can provide, and works with higher powered flashes like studio flash packs and monolights. Different flash and camera combinations yield different shutter speed and light output performance, but most combinations will get worthwhile benefits using HyperSync.

Other techniques, like the "HSS Hack" (with or without a manually dialed in delay), can sometimes get a normal flash of light from a studio pack into an exposure taken at faster shutter speeds, but these methods are less precise than HyperSync, lack automation, and are more limited to which camera and flash combinations yield usable results.

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

== How Does a Flash Work? ==

A flash is designed to emit a very intense light for a short duration of time. This is done by filling a flashtube with xenon gas, and then using a charged capacitor to energize the xenon with a very high amount of electrical current. This produces the light that flashes use to illuminate a scene. You can visualize a single flash event as “light over time,” plotted as a curve. The peak has the highest amount of energy emitted but energy continues to be emitted at a decreasing rate so long as the xenon gas is energized. This drop in energy (and therefore light output) creates the “tail” of the curve.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

While appearing to be instantly turned on and instantly turned off again, a flashtube can be excited for anywhere from 1 microsecond to tens of milliseconds. Most consumer flashes usually average around 1 millisecond, with some being longer, and some being shorter.

== How Does a Shutter Work? ==

A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

[[File:X-SyncShutter.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter at X-sync</center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.

[[File:MediumShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter above X-sync]</center>

The faster the shutter speed, the smaller the slit:

[[File:FastestShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>Faster shutter speeds have smaller slits</center>

== X-sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==

=== A flash directly connected to a camera ===

Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

A camera triggering a flash at X-sync follows this timeline:

# The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom. The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Some microseconds of time pass. The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The second curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-sync">
File:X-sync_shutter_sequence.JPG|Shutter Sequence at X-sync
File:5DMarkII_1.200.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/200th f/22. This is a photo of a white wall to demonstrate no clipping or gradation.
</gallery></center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync work differently. A camera triggering a flash above X-sync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain begins expose the sensor as it moves from top to bottom.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-sync.)
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The moving slit is exposed to the flash.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at 1/8000th With a Sync Cord">
File:Non-hypersync_1.8000.JPG|border|Sync Cord Timing Sequence at 1/8000th
File:IMG 4812.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22. This photo shows a tiny sliver of white flash exposure at the top, while the rest of the sensor has been blocked by the second curtain.
</gallery></center>

The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.

The PlusX, Plus III, or MultiMAX have a mode to reduce this delay, called [[Transmit Only]]. A receiving Plus III can use [[FAST mode]] to reduce processing time.

== [[High Speed Sync]] ==

High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.

A camera and flash using HSS/Auto-FP follow this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The speedlight begins to pulse light just before the first curtain begins to move.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The speedlight continues to pulse.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor.
#The speedlight stops pulsing.

[[File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg|400px|center|frameless|HSS Pulses at various shutter speeds within the Canon Optical communications system]]

<center>600EX-RT's HSS Performance at 1/8000th in a 1D Mark III's shoe without any radios</center>

HSS/Auto FP requires a speedlight. Studio strobes are not capable of pulsing light. HSS requires special timing information from the camera. This information is communicated through the TTL pins of a camera's hot shoe. A normal studio flash cannot perform the light pulse technique.

HSS exposures will not be as bright as standard single-pop flashes, because the available energy is divided among all the pulses over exposure time. The pulsed light requires more energy than non-pulsed flash. Flashes using HSS may need to be positioned closer to a subject.

== [[HyperSync]] ==

A normal, non-HSS flash is more efficient at delivering light to a subject than an HSS (pulsed) flash. As a result, flashes may be positioned farther from a subject.

HyperSync uses special camera communication to trigger a normal flash before the first curtain opens. It can also eliminate the delay introduced by a typical radio trigger. The timing can be optimized for some flashes based on the user’s wishes.

A camera triggering a flash with HyperSync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The attached MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 senses exactly when the shutter will fire, and then fires the flash early.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit. The faster the shutter speed is set the smaller the slit will become.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.

HyperSync requires a ControlTL transmitter like the [[Nikon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] or [[Canon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]. Optimizing HyperSync Automation require a ControlTL receiver like the [[PowerMC2]], [[PowerST4]], or [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]]. All transmitter HyperSync adjustments are made in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]]. Any PocketWizard radio can be used as a receiver and be triggered from the ControlTL transmitter's HyperSync timing. You will see the best results using a ControlTL receiver.

There are two methods of using HyperSync Automation available on a ControlTL receiver: [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] and [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]]. The two methods choose different flash firing times relative to the camera's shutters opening.

===Reduced Clipping===

Reduced Clipping attempts to keep bottom frame clipping out of your images. Reduced Clipping may result in a gradient across the image. Gradation means the photo is lighter at the bottom and darker at the top. The results are very usable in many situations.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Reduced Clipping">
File:Reduced_clipping_offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Reduced Clipping"
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Reduced Clipping benefits photographers:

*Shooting outdoors where the sky is a major factor in the top part of the image
*Using aperture priority in conditions that cause the shutter speed to go above X-sync
*In any situation where the full frame must be used and cropping is not an option

"Reduced Clipping" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown in on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page. This is the factory default setting.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Highest Energy ===

Highest Energy attempts to get as much flash energy into the image as possible. This will reduce gradation at lower HyperSync speeds, however it can result in black bars or clipping in the frame at the highest shutter speeds. For many situations this can yield useful results as clipping can be cropped out of the image, or the clipping area is exposed by ambient light primiarily.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Highest Energy">
File:Highest energy offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Highest Energy"
File:IMG 4015.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Highest Energy benefits photographers:

*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-sync
*Who need as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, longer flash durations are better)
*Where gradation is not acceptable
*In any situation where cropping is an option

"Highest Energy" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Factors to consider ===

There are many factors that may impact HyperSync performance.

==== Flash Duration ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Flash Duration Makes With Otherwise Matching Equipment">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXA RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (A Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/1150
File:Ranger_RX_A-head_7.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX A Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2300
</gallery></center>

==== Power Level ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Power Level has on Flash Duration">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXS RC -3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at lowest power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Highest Power
File:Ranger_RX_S-Head_1.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Lowest Power
</gallery></center>

==== Use with IGBT-controlled strobes ====

*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash will need to be used at full power with HyperSync. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control.

To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

==== Camera Choice ====

*Cameras with larger and slower shutters can produce more noticeable gradation. Cameras with faster moving shutters and smaller sensors can improve HyperSync success by minimizing gradation. Faster or slower moving shutters are not the same as your camera's shutter speed setting.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Camera Choice">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(Slower Shutter)'''
File:1DMarkIVRangerRXS RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 1D Mark IV 1/8000th f/22 '''(Faster Shutter)'''
</gallery></center>

*Some cameras allow enough time for HyperSync to fire before the camera moves its first shutter. Some do not. Different combinations yield different results.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Communication Time Limitation">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Canon 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(More Communication Time)'''
File:D3RangerRXS_RC_+3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Nikon D3 1/8000th f/22 (HyperSync Only Enabled)''' (Less Communication Time)'''
</gallery></center>

Batteries

2013-09-20T15:24:51Z

Chris: /* MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Status LED */

{{recommended reading|Status LED|}}

Some PocketWizard radios require batteries.

__TOC__

'''CAUTION'''

'''Turn OFF your equipment (PocketWizard units, electronic flash units, cameras, etc.) before making connections or changing batteries.'''

==Battery Chemistry==

FlexTT5s will operate reliably using just about any pair of ~1.5 volt AA batteries, regardless of the type of battery chemistry. Alkaline, lithium, nickel metal hydride, nickel cadmium, and other battery chemistrys may vary somewhat in total life expectancy, but all are compatible. PocketWizard radios will report the most accurate remaining battery life using Alkaline batteries, since other chemistrys have a slightly different voltage discharge curve, which is how the remaining life is measured.

Regardless of the particular battery chemistry, the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 regulate the batter power which gives excellent performance throughout the entire life of the batteries. The unit will continue to function normally until the batteries are nearly exhausted.

The voltage regulation in our radios is very efficient. There is usually only a small benefit when using lithium (non-rechargeable) batteries. Lithium batteries are designed for the quick burst high current draw found in cameras and portable flash devices. Expect only a 10-20% longer battery life (approximate) over alkaline batteries when using lithium batteries.

== FlexTT5, Canon or Nikon ==
[[File:FlexTT5 Battery Polarity.jpg|thumb|300px|Note proper polarity]]

Install 2 fresh AA (IEC:LR6) batteries into the FlexTT5 Transceiver. Make sure to note proper polarity.

Alkaline batteries are recommended. Rechargeable or other chemistry batteries will also work, though life expectancy may vary.

Life expectancy = approximately 60 hours with alkaline batteries.
{{clear}}

== MiniTT1, Canon or Nikon ==
[[File:MiniTT1_Battery_Polarity.jpg|thumb|300px|Note proper polarity]]

The MiniTT1 saves batteries by automatically entering an extremely low power state when the camera enters sleep mode, or if not on a camera and TEST is not pressed for 10 seconds.

Install a fresh CR2450 coin cell battery into the MiniTT1 Transmitter. Make sure to note proper polarity. When the battery is in the radio, you should be able to see the + sign.

Life expectancy varies based on usage profile, as well as camera and flash models. When using a CR2450:
* Canon MiniTT1 = 100’s of hours/thousands of triggers
* Nikon MiniTT1 = approximately 30 hours of camera awake time

[[Basic Trigger Mode]] consumes the coin cell battery more quickly and is not recommended when using the MiniTT1 for Nikon on a Nikon camera, or when using the MiniTT1 for Canon on a Canon camera.

Low temperature can significantly affect coin cell performance. Always use fresh batteries in cold temperatures. Make sure to read the [[Safety Warnings]] about temperature.
{{clear}}

== MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Status LED ==

<div style="float: right;"><videoflash>mF-QD999nDY&loop=1&rel=0&autoplay=0|225|155</videoflash></div>

Look at the normal [[Status LED]] blink to determine battery level, or use the PocketWizard Utility.

;LED Blink:
1 <span style="color:green;">Green</span> blink = More than 50% remaining

2 <span style="color:orange;">Amber</span> blinks = Warning – less than 50% remaining

3 <span style="color:red;">Red</span> blinks = Less than 25% remaining – change immediately

These battery levels are tuned for alkaline batteries in the FlexTT5 and a standard Lithium coin cell
in the MiniTT1. Other battery chemistries can work, but their battery level may not be reported
accurately.

'''Please note:''' The LED battery level blinks are based on the discharge curve and voltages of standard Alkaline batteries. Those are the most common and most predictable. Rechargeables have slightly different voltages, very different discharge curves, and, considering the different chemistries and aging of the batteries, are less predictable from the LED's perspective. It would be nearly impossible for us to make an LED battery level blink that accommodated all chemistries and aging of rechargeables.

You can still use your rechargeable batteries, but you need to build your own mental map of how they perform over time. If your rechargeables last 20 hours, then plan accordingly. If they blink amber when fully charged, then work with that information. If they only last a few hours when the LED blinks red, then use that information. The radios will reliably measure the voltages, but the LED colors and blinks will have different meanings for your batteries relative to alkalines.

The radios will continue to work reliably and consistently until the batteries are exhausted. They are low current draw devices, and take very little power from the batteries to operate. They will have the same range and performance when the LED is green, amber or red. At the very end of the batteries life (LED has been red for a while) they might begin to have issues depending on how well the batteries recover at low voltage, but up until that very end point they should operate identically shot to shot.

== MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 Battery Meter in the PocketWizard Utility ==

To see your battery level in the PocketWizard Utility, make sure your MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 are turned on (set to C.1 or C.2) before you connect the USB cable. Hover your mouse cursor over the battery icon to get an exact voltage and battery status.

== Storage ==

For all PocketWizard products,the storage temperature range, without batteries, is above -30° C (-22° F) and below 85° C (185° F).

'''Always remove batteries during storage.'''

== Battery Warnings ==

WARNING – To avoid battery leakage, follow these guidelines:

* Always remove the batteries when the unit is not in use for extended periods of time, or during shipping or long distance travel.

* Never mix old and new batteries. Always use a fresh pair of matched batteries.

* Always change batteries promptly at the first indication of low battery operation.

* Do not use or leave the unit in extreme temperature or humid environments.

[[Category:MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|1]]

Template:NikonCameras

2013-09-18T14:32:06Z

Chris:

<div align="center">
{| border="1" style="text-align:center" class="wikitable"
|[[Nikon D4]]
|[[Nikon D800E]]
|[[Nikon D90]]
|Nikon D7100*
|-
|[[Nikon D3x]]
|[[Nikon D800]]
|[[Nikon D80]]
|[[Nikon D7000]]
|-
|[[Nikon D3s]]
|[[Nikon D700]]
|''[[Nikon D40x]]''
|Nikon D5200*
|-
|[[Nikon D3]]
|[[Nikon D600]]
|''[[Nikon D40]]''
|''[[Nikon D5100]]''
|-
|[[Nikon D2x]]
|[[Nikon D300s]]
|
|''[[Nikon D5000]]''
|-
|
|[[Nikon D300]]
|
|''[[Nikon D3200]]''
|-
|
|[[Nikon D200]]
|
|''[[Nikon D3100]]''
|-
|
|
|
|''[[Nikon D3000]]''
|}
</div>

''NOTE: The D40, D40x, D5100, D5000, D3000, D3100, and D3200 do not support HSS/FP-Sync operation. These cameras also do not support HyperSync.''

* NOTE: The D7100, and D5200 are not currently supported for use with ControlTL radios with advanced features like HSS/FP-Sync, HyperSync, or TTL. These cameras can be used with Basic Trigger mode. You can read more about Basic Trigger mode here: http://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger

Template:NikonCameras

2013-09-18T14:27:05Z

Chris:

HyperSync Setup

2013-09-17T20:15:37Z

Chris: /* How to Configure the Receiving PowerST4 */

This page describes how to configure your PocketWizard radios for using [[HyperSync]] to capture flash above X-sync. This page will provide details on configuring your radios in the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab|PocketWizard Utility]] for best HyperSync performance. HyperSync requires at least one [[ControlTL]] radio like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] to serve as the transmitter. Receiving radios may be ControlTL radios like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|FlexTT5]], [[PowerMC2]], or [[PowerST4]], or Standard Channel radios like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

To learn what HyperSync is and how it differs from other flash sync techniques, visit the [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]] page. For basic information on HyperSync, return to the main [[HyperSync]] page.

__TOC__

<br />

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

'''The results below were produced with the steps detailed on the bottom parts of this page.'''

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br />

==All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation==

Performing [[HyperSync]] is easiest with all [[ControlTL]] radios, transmitter and receivers. Non-ControlTL receivers (Standard Channel radios) do not have the benefit of HyperSync Automation, and require more manual adjustment for best results. While default HyperSync settings for ControlTL radios will usually provide great results, they may also be reconfigured by the photographer. First configure your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]], and then your receiving PocketWizard radio. Steps for configuring your ControlTL transmitter and receiver are detailed below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter===
When using a [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] as a transmitter to perform [[HyperSync]], follow these steps to configure your radio.

'''For Nikon users:'''

For the most consistent results and most flash energy in frame with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]:”

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “HyperSync Only”
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Nikon Transmitter.jpg|600px]]

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Nikon user with ControlTL receivers, and the “HyperSync Only” control is left at its default (disabled) less flash energy will be captured in frame and HyperSync will not be able to optimize flash timing. If you are a Nikon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

'''For Canon users:'''

For best performance with Canon radios, it is highly recommended that you manually select your camera model:

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab
#Use the drop-down menu to select the camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Canon transmitter.JPG|600px]]

<br />

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Canon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter===
When using a Canon or Nikon FlexTT5 with an attached [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab and select the flash connected to the AC9 AlienBees Adapter using the "AC9 Flash" dropdown menu
#Set “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” to either "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]" (default = “Reduced Clipping”)
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter to the flash

[[File:Ac9_tab.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Paul C. Buff flashes and AC9 Adapter:

{{AC9Flashes}}

If you wish to use a flash that does not appear on the list above with an AC9 AlienBees Adapter, try selecting a flash of a similar power output.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerMC2===
When using a [[PowerMC2]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerMC2 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync\HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerMC2 to the flash

[[File:Powermc2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{PowerMC2HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{PowerMC2HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation with the PowerMC2 is intended for use with the Einstein E640 flash. Using the Einstein’s “Color” mode will provide the best results. The E640 only provides its best HyperSync results when set to full power (+3 on the [[AC3 ZoneController]] or master Speedlite). Due to its IGBT design, settings lower than full power may result in clipping.

You can read more about this behavior on the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

{{MC2Utility}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerST4===
When using a [[PowerST4]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerST4 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync/HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Navigate to the [[Misc Tab]] and select [[Misc Tab#Ranger RX Head Selection|S-head or A-head]] if you have a Ranger RX, or [[Misc Tab#Digital 1200/2400RX Head Selection|select your Digital RX series head]] if you're using a Digital 1200 or 2400 pack.
#Select [[Misc Tab#Flash Model|your flash model]] as well.
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerST4 to the flash or pack

[[File:PowerST4_Utility.JPG|600px]]

[[File:PowerST4_misc_tab.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{PowerST4HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{PowerST4HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Elinchrom flashes and PowerST4:

{{ST4Flashes}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port===
When using a FlexTT5 as your receiver connected to a flash via the P2 port, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab; use the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#P2 HyperSync Flash Duration| P2 HyperSync Flash Duration]]” drop-down to select a timing setting – 10 is often a good starting-point
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the FlexTT5 to the flash or pack via the P2 port and appropriate cable

[[File:P2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “P2 HyperSync Flash Duration” value - if you have a smaller flash or Speedlite connected via the P2 port, start by testing with lower numbers, if you have a studio strobe or larger flash, you will likely see the best results with higher numbers

<br />

==ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)==
Performing [[HyperSync]] is possible with a [[ControlTL]] transmitter and Standard Channel receivers like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

Only ControlTL radios have HyperSync settings that can be adjusted. When using Standard Channel radios as receivers, all HyperSync settings or offsets will need to be manipulated on the transmitter. The Standard Channel receivers need only be set to use the correct channel and then connected to the remote flashes. The transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] can account for the flash duration of remote flashes in one of two ways, “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]” or “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]].” Find more information on these options on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] page.

When using a mix of ControlTL and Standard Channel radios to perform HyperSync, determine whether you would like to use “HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels” or “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels.” and follow the instructions below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Select a value 1-10 for the “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” – 10 is often a good starting-point
#'''Canon users only:''' Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:HyperSyncFlashDurationForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” value – some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

<br />

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Enable “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels” by clicking the check-box
#Use the slider to set a Manual HyperSync Offset – the greatest offset (all the way to the left) is often a good starting point
#Canon users only: Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:ManualHyperSyncForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different Manual HyperSync Offset value – typically the maximum offset (slider all the way to the left) works well as a starting point. Not all cameras can use the full range of this setting. Some cameras will show no change beyond certain offset value. This is a limitation of the camera. Some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

HyperSync Setup

2013-09-17T20:14:24Z

Chris: /* How to Configure the Receiving PowerMC2 */

This page describes how to configure your PocketWizard radios for using [[HyperSync]] to capture flash above X-sync. This page will provide details on configuring your radios in the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab|PocketWizard Utility]] for best HyperSync performance. HyperSync requires at least one [[ControlTL]] radio like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] to serve as the transmitter. Receiving radios may be ControlTL radios like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|FlexTT5]], [[PowerMC2]], or [[PowerST4]], or Standard Channel radios like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

To learn what HyperSync is and how it differs from other flash sync techniques, visit the [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]] page. For basic information on HyperSync, return to the main [[HyperSync]] page.

__TOC__

<br />

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

'''The results below were produced with the steps detailed on the bottom parts of this page.'''

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br />

==All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation==

Performing [[HyperSync]] is easiest with all [[ControlTL]] radios, transmitter and receivers. Non-ControlTL receivers (Standard Channel radios) do not have the benefit of HyperSync Automation, and require more manual adjustment for best results. While default HyperSync settings for ControlTL radios will usually provide great results, they may also be reconfigured by the photographer. First configure your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]], and then your receiving PocketWizard radio. Steps for configuring your ControlTL transmitter and receiver are detailed below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter===
When using a [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] as a transmitter to perform [[HyperSync]], follow these steps to configure your radio.

'''For Nikon users:'''

For the most consistent results and most flash energy in frame with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]:”

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “HyperSync Only”
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Nikon Transmitter.jpg|600px]]

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Nikon user with ControlTL receivers, and the “HyperSync Only” control is left at its default (disabled) less flash energy will be captured in frame and HyperSync will not be able to optimize flash timing. If you are a Nikon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

'''For Canon users:'''

For best performance with Canon radios, it is highly recommended that you manually select your camera model:

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab
#Use the drop-down menu to select the camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Canon transmitter.JPG|600px]]

<br />

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Canon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter===
When using a Canon or Nikon FlexTT5 with an attached [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab and select the flash connected to the AC9 AlienBees Adapter using the "AC9 Flash" dropdown menu
#Set “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” to either "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]" (default = “Reduced Clipping”)
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter to the flash

[[File:Ac9_tab.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Paul C. Buff flashes and AC9 Adapter:

{{AC9Flashes}}

If you wish to use a flash that does not appear on the list above with an AC9 AlienBees Adapter, try selecting a flash of a similar power output.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerMC2===
When using a [[PowerMC2]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerMC2 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync\HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerMC2 to the flash

[[File:Powermc2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{PowerMC2HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{PowerMC2HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation with the PowerMC2 is intended for use with the Einstein E640 flash. Using the Einstein’s “Color” mode will provide the best results. The E640 only provides its best HyperSync results when set to full power (+3 on the [[AC3 ZoneController]] or master Speedlite). Due to its IGBT design, settings lower than full power may result in clipping.

You can read more about this behavior on the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

{{MC2Utility}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerST4===
When using a [[PowerST4]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerST4 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync/HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Navigate to the [[Misc Tab]] and select [[Misc Tab#Ranger RX Head Selection|S-head or A-head]] if you have a Ranger RX, or [[Misc Tab#Digital 1200/2400RX Head Selection|select your Digital RX series head]] if you're using a Digital 1200 or 2400 pack.
#Select [[Misc Tab#Flash Model|your flash model]] as well.
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerST4 to the flash or pack

[[File:PowerST4_Utility.JPG|600px]]

[[File:PowerST4_misc_tab.JPG|600px]]

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Elinchrom flashes and PowerST4:

{{ST4Flashes}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port===
When using a FlexTT5 as your receiver connected to a flash via the P2 port, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab; use the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#P2 HyperSync Flash Duration| P2 HyperSync Flash Duration]]” drop-down to select a timing setting – 10 is often a good starting-point
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the FlexTT5 to the flash or pack via the P2 port and appropriate cable

[[File:P2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “P2 HyperSync Flash Duration” value - if you have a smaller flash or Speedlite connected via the P2 port, start by testing with lower numbers, if you have a studio strobe or larger flash, you will likely see the best results with higher numbers

<br />

==ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)==
Performing [[HyperSync]] is possible with a [[ControlTL]] transmitter and Standard Channel receivers like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

Only ControlTL radios have HyperSync settings that can be adjusted. When using Standard Channel radios as receivers, all HyperSync settings or offsets will need to be manipulated on the transmitter. The Standard Channel receivers need only be set to use the correct channel and then connected to the remote flashes. The transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] can account for the flash duration of remote flashes in one of two ways, “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]” or “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]].” Find more information on these options on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] page.

When using a mix of ControlTL and Standard Channel radios to perform HyperSync, determine whether you would like to use “HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels” or “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels.” and follow the instructions below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Select a value 1-10 for the “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” – 10 is often a good starting-point
#'''Canon users only:''' Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:HyperSyncFlashDurationForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” value – some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

<br />

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Enable “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels” by clicking the check-box
#Use the slider to set a Manual HyperSync Offset – the greatest offset (all the way to the left) is often a good starting point
#Canon users only: Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:ManualHyperSyncForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different Manual HyperSync Offset value – typically the maximum offset (slider all the way to the left) works well as a starting point. Not all cameras can use the full range of this setting. Some cameras will show no change beyond certain offset value. This is a limitation of the camera. Some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

HyperSync Setup

2013-09-17T20:08:07Z

Chris: /* How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter */

This page describes how to configure your PocketWizard radios for using [[HyperSync]] to capture flash above X-sync. This page will provide details on configuring your radios in the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab|PocketWizard Utility]] for best HyperSync performance. HyperSync requires at least one [[ControlTL]] radio like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] to serve as the transmitter. Receiving radios may be ControlTL radios like the [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|FlexTT5]], [[PowerMC2]], or [[PowerST4]], or Standard Channel radios like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

To learn what HyperSync is and how it differs from other flash sync techniques, visit the [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]] page. For basic information on HyperSync, return to the main [[HyperSync]] page.

__TOC__

<br />

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

'''The results below were produced with the steps detailed on the bottom parts of this page.'''

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br />

==All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation==

Performing [[HyperSync]] is easiest with all [[ControlTL]] radios, transmitter and receivers. Non-ControlTL receivers (Standard Channel radios) do not have the benefit of HyperSync Automation, and require more manual adjustment for best results. While default HyperSync settings for ControlTL radios will usually provide great results, they may also be reconfigured by the photographer. First configure your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]], and then your receiving PocketWizard radio. Steps for configuring your ControlTL transmitter and receiver are detailed below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter===
When using a [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] as a transmitter to perform [[HyperSync]], follow these steps to configure your radio.

'''For Nikon users:'''

For the most consistent results and most flash energy in frame with Nikon radios, it is highly recommended that you enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]:”

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “HyperSync Only”
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Nikon Transmitter.jpg|600px]]

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Nikon user with ControlTL receivers, and the “HyperSync Only” control is left at its default (disabled) less flash energy will be captured in frame and HyperSync will not be able to optimize flash timing. If you are a Nikon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

'''For Canon users:'''

For best performance with Canon radios, it is highly recommended that you manually select your camera model:

#Connect your transmitting MiniTT1/FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and check the "Advanced Mode" box
#Navigate to the "[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab
#Use the drop-down menu to select the camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:Canon transmitter.JPG|600px]]

<br />

'''NOTE:''' If you are a Canon user attempting to use HyperSync with Standard Channel receivers (like the [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], or [[MultiMAX]]), you must enable "HyperSync Only." Please read the section [[HyperSync Setup#ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)|ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver]], below, for more information.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter===
When using a Canon or Nikon FlexTT5 with an attached [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab and select the flash connected to the AC9 AlienBees Adapter using the "AC9 Flash" dropdown menu
#Set “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” to either "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]" (default = “Reduced Clipping”)
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the receiving FlexTT5 and AC9 AlienBees Adapter to the flash

[[File:Ac9_tab.JPG|600px]]

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Nikon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncNikon}}

This video shows you how to set up your transmitter and receiver for HyperSync for the Canon system of radios.
{{AC9HyperSyncCanon}}

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Paul C. Buff flashes and AC9 Adapter:

{{AC9Flashes}}

If you wish to use a flash that does not appear on the list above with an AC9 AlienBees Adapter, try selecting a flash of a similar power output.

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerMC2===
When using a [[PowerMC2]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerMC2 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync\HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerMC2 to the flash

[[File:Powermc2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

HyperSync Automation with the PowerMC2 is intended for use with the Einstein E640 flash. Using the Einstein’s “Color” mode will provide the best results. The E640 only provides its best HyperSync results when set to full power (+3 on the [[AC3 ZoneController]] or master Speedlite). Due to its IGBT design, settings lower than full power may result in clipping. You can read more about this on the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

{{MC2Utility}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving PowerST4===
When using a [[PowerST4]] as your receiver, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your PowerST4 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Optimize HyperSync Automation For:]]” on the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync/HSS|HyperSync]]” tab; choose "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Reduced Clipping]]" or "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Optimize HyperSync Automation For:|Highest Energy]]"
#Navigate to the [[Misc Tab]] and select [[Misc Tab#Ranger RX Head Selection|S-head or A-head]] if you have a Ranger RX, or [[Misc Tab#Digital 1200/2400RX Head Selection|select your Digital RX series head]] if you're using a Digital 1200 or 2400 pack.
#Select [[Misc Tab#Flash Model|your flash model]] as well.
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the PowerST4 to the flash or pack

[[File:PowerST4_Utility.JPG|600px]]

[[File:PowerST4_misc_tab.JPG|600px]]

HyperSync Automation is currently implemented for the following Elinchrom flashes and PowerST4:

{{ST4Flashes}}

<br />

===How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port===
When using a FlexTT5 as your receiver connected to a flash via the P2 port, follow these steps to configure your radio:

#Connect your receiving FlexTT5 to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB, and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]” tab; use the “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#P2 HyperSync Flash Duration| P2 HyperSync Flash Duration]]” drop-down to select a timing setting – 10 is often a good starting-point
#Click "Apply Changes"
#Connect the FlexTT5 to the flash or pack via the P2 port and appropriate cable

[[File:P2 Utility.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “P2 HyperSync Flash Duration” value - if you have a smaller flash or Speedlite connected via the P2 port, start by testing with lower numbers, if you have a studio strobe or larger flash, you will likely see the best results with higher numbers

<br />

==ControlTL Transmitter, Standard Receiver (Plus II, Plus III, PlusX, MultiMAX)==
Performing [[HyperSync]] is possible with a [[ControlTL]] transmitter and Standard Channel receivers like the [[MultiMAX]], [[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], or [[PlusX]].

Only ControlTL radios have HyperSync settings that can be adjusted. When using Standard Channel radios as receivers, all HyperSync settings or offsets will need to be manipulated on the transmitter. The Standard Channel receivers need only be set to use the correct channel and then connected to the remote flashes. The transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] can account for the flash duration of remote flashes in one of two ways, “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]” or “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]].” Find more information on these options on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] page.

When using a mix of ControlTL and Standard Channel radios to perform HyperSync, determine whether you would like to use “HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels” or “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels.” and follow the instructions below.

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels| HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Select a value 1-10 for the “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” – 10 is often a good starting-point
#'''Canon users only:''' Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera model
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:HyperSyncFlashDurationForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different “HyperSync Flash Duration for Standard Channels” value – some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

<br />

===How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels===
Follow these steps to configure your ControlTL transmitter using [[HyperSync/HSS Tab#Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels| Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels]]:

#Connect your transmitting [[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5|MiniTT1 or FlexTT5]] to the [[PocketWizard Utility]] via USB and make sure that the “Advanced Mode” box is checked
#Navigate to the "[[HyperSync/HSS Tab|HyperSync/HSS]]" tab
#Enable “[[HyperSync/HSS Tab#HyperSync Only (Disable HSS/FP)|HyperSync Only]]”
#Enable “Manual HyperSync For Standard Channels” by clicking the check-box
#Use the slider to set a Manual HyperSync Offset – the greatest offset (all the way to the left) is often a good starting point
#Canon users only: Navigate to the “[[Misc Tab|Misc]]” tab and manually select your camera
#Click "Apply Changes"

[[File:ManualHyperSyncForStandardChannels.JPG|600px]]

If you notice clipping in frame, choose a different Manual HyperSync Offset value – typically the maximum offset (slider all the way to the left) works well as a starting point. Not all cameras can use the full range of this setting. Some cameras will show no change beyond certain offset value. This is a limitation of the camera. Some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination

Template:PowerMC2HyperSyncCanon

2013-09-17T20:05:38Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T20:05:18Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T20:05:05Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T20:04:52Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T20:04:39Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T20:03:38Z

Chris:

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2013-09-17T19:50:32Z

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Status LED

2013-09-05T18:35:21Z

Chris: /* Normal Operation */

{{recommended reading|Channels|}}

The Status LED indicates that the unit is powered on, and displays battery level and other special status modes.

== Normal Operation ==

Under normal operation the LED will display a short green blink every 2 seconds. This is the normal “powered on and waiting for trigger” blink.

;LED Blink:
1 <span style="color:green;">Green</span> blink = More than 50% remaining

2 <span style="color:orange;">Amber</span> blinks = Warning – less than 50% remaining

3 <span style="color:red;">Red</span> blinks = Less than 25% remaining – change immediately

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{|
|
|}
FlexTT5 "Good Battery" Blink[[File:Example.jpg]]

See the [[Batteries]] section for more information.

== Triggering ==

A pulsing red LED in sync with TEST or a camera trigger indicates normal transmission.

== Learn Mode ==

If TEST is held for 10 seconds, LEARN mode will be activated. See [[Learn Mode]] for information. A short red blink in sync with the camera’s trigger indicates normal transmission or reception.

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{|
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Learning LED sequence: Holding TEST for 10 seconds will cause the unit to pulse red (continuously transmitting), then it will flash amber 4 times (indicating the beginning of Learn mode), then it will pulse
amber while listening for a channel to learn. If it learns a channel, it will blink green 1, 2, or 3 times
depending on the channel learned, then flash amber 1 more time to indicate LEARN is complete. If no
channels are learned, the radio returns to normal “waiting for trigger” blinking. See LEARN Mode for
more information.

== Error Condition ==
Repeated red blinking indicates an error condition. Power off the unit, reseat all connections, and power back on. If the error persists, verify your settings. For example if you are using a Standard channel to trigger a FlexTT5 with a Speedlite in it set to E-TTL, this is an error. The flash needs to be set to manual (See [[Manual Mode]] for more information).
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{|
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A normal green blink occurs on power up initialization and after [[Apply Settings]] has been pressed in the [[PocketWizard Utility]].

''Note that a single red blink when triggering is normal operation.''

== Reset ==

If TEST is held on power up then RESET A and RESET B can be performed. Two green blinks in a row indicate that RESET A was completed. Four green blinks in a row appear when RESET B has been completed. RESET A resets channels learned in the field back to those programmed via the PocketWizard Utility. RESET B sets the radio to factory default settings.
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IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-29T19:03:16Z

Chris: /* IGBT Power Control */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and almost all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors. Notice how this graph looks similar to the ones above.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2 power">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/2 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_half_timing.JPG|580EX II at 1/2 power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-29T18:59:51Z

Chris: /* IGBT Power Control */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and almost all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2 power">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/2 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_half_timing.JPG|580EX II at 1/2 power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync

2013-08-29T18:58:58Z

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

{{recommended reading|HyperSync|}}

'''This section describes how HyperSync and High Speed Sync work at a basic level. Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync for your configuration.'''

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.

While the flash appears instantaneous to our eyes, it actually has duration and variance. These are important to the camera’s sensor, especially at faster shutter speeds.

At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.

At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor. At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.

High Speed Sync (HSS or Auto-FP sync) begins pulsing the flash before the first curtain opens and continues to pulse it until after the second curtain closes. From the camera’s perspective this pulsed light appears as continuous light during the exposure. HSS uses a lot of energy, however, which means there is less light available for the image, and is usually only available in lower powered Speedlites/Speedlights. Syncing up to 1/8000 is possible, but the flash must be very close to the subject.

HyperSync uses a normal flash of light, which has much more energy in it compared to pulsed HSS. HyperSync also uses precision timing to align the flash’s duration and output curve with the moving shutter curtains. This allows more light in the image than HSS can provide, and works with higher powered flashes like studio flash packs and monolights. Different flash and camera combinations yield different shutter speed and light output performance, but most combinations will get worthwhile benefits using HyperSync.

Other techniques, like the "HSS Hack" (with or without a manually dialed in delay), can sometimes get a normal flash of light from a studio pack into an exposure taken at faster shutter speeds, but these methods are less precise than HyperSync, lack automation, and are more limited to which camera and flash combinations yield usable results.

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

== How Does a Flash Work? ==

A flash is designed to emit a very intense light for a short duration of time. This is done by filling a flashtube with xenon gas, and then using a charged capacitor to energize the xenon with a very high amount of electrical current. This produces the light that flashes use to illuminate a scene. You can visualize a single flash event as “light over time,” plotted as a curve. The peak has the highest amount of energy emitted but energy continues to be emitted at a decreasing rate so long as the xenon gas is energized. This drop in energy (and therefore light output) creates the “tail” of the curve.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

While appearing to be instantly turned on and instantly turned off again, a flashtube can be excited for anywhere from 1 microsecond to tens of milliseconds. Most consumer flashes usually average around 1 millisecond, with some being longer, and some being shorter.

== How Does a Shutter Work? ==

A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

[[File:X-SyncShutter.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter at X-sync</center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.

[[File:MediumShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter above X-sync]</center>

The faster the shutter speed, the smaller the slit:

[[File:FastestShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>Faster shutter speeds have smaller slits</center>

== X-sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==

=== A flash directly connected to a camera ===

Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

A camera triggering a flash at X-sync follows this timeline:

# The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom. The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Some microseconds of time pass. The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The second curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-sync">
File:X-sync_shutter_sequence.JPG|Shutter Sequence at X-sync
File:5DMarkII_1.200.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/200th f/22. This is a photo of a white wall to demonstrate no clipping or gradation.
</gallery></center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync work differently. A camera triggering a flash above X-sync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain begins expose the sensor as it moves from top to bottom.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-sync.)
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The moving slit is exposed to the flash.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at 1/8000th With a Sync Cord">
File:Non-hypersync_1.8000.JPG|border|Sync Cord Timing Sequence at 1/8000th
File:IMG 4812.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22. This photo shows a tiny sliver of white flash exposure at the top, while the rest of the sensor has been blocked by the second curtain.
</gallery></center>

The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.

The PlusX, Plus III, or MultiMAX have a mode to reduce this delay, called [[Transmit Only]]. A receiving Plus III can use [[FAST mode]] to reduce processing time.

== [[High Speed Sync]] ==

High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.

A camera and flash using HSS/Auto-FP follow this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The speedlight begins to pulse light just before the first curtain begins to move.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The speedlight continues to pulse.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor.
#The speedlight stops pulsing.

[[File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg|400px|center|frameless|HSS Pulses at various shutter speeds within the Canon Optical communications system]]

<center>600EX-RT's HSS Performance at 1/8000th in a 1D Mark III's shoe without any radios</center>

HSS/Auto FP requires a speedlight. Studio strobes are not capable of pulsing light. HSS requires special timing information from the camera. This information is communicated through the TTL pins of a camera's hot shoe. A normal studio flash cannot perform the light pulse technique.

HSS exposures will not be as bright as standard single-pop flashes, because the available energy is divided among all the pulses over exposure time. The pulsed light requires more energy than non-pulsed flash. Flashes using HSS may need to be positioned closer to a subject.

== [[HyperSync]] ==

A normal, non-HSS flash is more efficient at delivering light to a subject than an HSS (pulsed) flash. As a result, flashes may be positioned farther from a subject.

HyperSync uses special camera communication to trigger a normal flash before the first curtain opens. It can also eliminate the delay introduced by a typical radio trigger. The timing can be optimized for some flashes based on the user’s wishes.

A camera triggering a flash with HyperSync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The attached MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 senses exactly when the shutter will fire, and then fires the flash early.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit. The faster the shutter speed is set the smaller the slit will become.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.

HyperSync requires a ControlTL transmitter like the [[Nikon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] or [[Canon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]. Optimizing HyperSync Automation require a ControlTL receiver like the [[PowerMC2]], [[PowerST4]], or [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]]. All transmitter HyperSync adjustments are made in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]]. Any PocketWizard radio can be used as a receiver and be triggered from the ControlTL transmitter's HyperSync timing. You will see the best results using a ControlTL receiver.

There are two methods of using HyperSync Automation available on a ControlTL receiver: [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] and [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]]. The two methods choose different flash firing times relative to the camera's shutters opening.

===Reduced Clipping===

Reduced Clipping attempts to keep bottom frame clipping out of your images. Reduced Clipping may result in a gradient across the image. Gradation means the photo is lighter at the bottom and darker at the top. The results are very usable in many situations.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Reduced Clipping">
File:Reduced_clipping_offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Reduced Clipping"
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Reduced Clipping benefits photographers:

*Shooting outdoors where the sky is a major factor in the top part of the image
*Using aperture priority in conditions that cause the shutter speed to go above X-sync
*In any situation where the full frame must be used and cropping is not an option

"Reduced Clipping" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown in on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page. This is the factory default setting.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Highest Energy ===

Highest Energy attempts to get as much flash energy into the image as possible. This will reduce gradation at lower HyperSync speeds, however it can result in black bars or clipping in the frame at the highest shutter speeds. For many situations this can yield useful results as clipping can be cropped out of the image, or the clipping area is exposed by ambient light primiarily.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Highest Energy">
File:Highest energy offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Highest Energy"
File:IMG 4015.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Highest Energy benefits photographers:

*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-sync
*Who need as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, longer flash durations are better)
*Where gradation is not acceptable
*In any situation where cropping is an option

"Highest Energy" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Factors to consider ===

There are many factors that may impact HyperSync performance.

==== Flash Duration ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Flash Duration Makes With Otherwise Matching Equipment">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXA RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (A Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/1150
File:Ranger_RX_A-head_7.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX A Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2300
</gallery></center>

==== Power Level ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Power Level has on Flash Duration">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXS RC -3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at lowest power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Highest Power
File:Ranger_RX_S-Head_1.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Lowest Power
</gallery></center>

==== Use with IGBT-controlled strobes ====

*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash will need to be used at full power with HyperSync. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

==== Camera Choice ====

*Cameras with larger and slower shutters can produce more noticeable gradation. Cameras with faster moving shutters and smaller sensors can improve HyperSync success by minimizing gradation. Faster or slower moving shutters are not the same as your camera's shutter speed setting.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Camera Choice">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(Slower Shutter)'''
File:1DMarkIVRangerRXS RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 1D Mark IV 1/8000th f/22 '''(Faster Shutter)'''
</gallery></center>

*Some cameras allow enough time for HyperSync to fire before the camera moves its first shutter. Some do not. Different combinations yield different results.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Communication Time Limitation">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Canon 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(More Communication Time)'''
File:D3RangerRXS_RC_+3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Nikon D3 1/8000th f/22 (HyperSync Only Enabled)''' (Less Communication Time)'''
</gallery></center>

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-29T14:24:50Z

Chris: /* Effects on HyperSync */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2 power">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/2 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_half_timing.JPG|580EX II at 1/2 power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

File:580EX II half timing.JPG

2013-08-29T14:24:26Z

Chris: 580EX II at 1/2 power with timing information

580EX II at 1/2 power with timing information

HyperSync

2013-08-29T14:21:34Z

Chris: /* HyperSync Performance with your Camera */

{{recommended reading|High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.

In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
<br/>
<br/>

==What is HyperSync?==

[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-Sync while using studio strobes.

Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level and how it differs from HSS.

===Understanding HyperSync===

You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.

For an in-depth look at how these features look, pleas visit the following page:

* [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Setup==
[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]

HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:

* [[HyperSync_Setup|HyperSync Setup]]

<br clear=all>

==When to Use HyperSync==

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.

===Freezing Action===
[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.]]

The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.

<br clear=all>

===Overpowering the Sun===
[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.

<br clear=all>

===More Power===
[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.

Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs.

You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting the page below:

* [[Clipping and Gradient]].

{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br clear=all>

HyperSync

2013-08-29T14:15:51Z

Chris: /* HyperSync Setup */

{{recommended reading|High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.

In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
<br/>
<br/>

==What is HyperSync?==

[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-Sync while using studio strobes.

Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level and how it differs from HSS.

===Understanding HyperSync===

You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.

For an in-depth look at how these features look, pleas visit the following page:

* [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Setup==
[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]

HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:

* [[HyperSync_Setup|HyperSync Setup]]

<br clear=all>

==When to Use HyperSync==

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.

===Freezing Action===
[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.]]

The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.

<br clear=all>

===Overpowering the Sun===
[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.

<br clear=all>

===More Power===
[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.

Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs. You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting our page on [[Clipping and Gradient]].

{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br clear=all>

HyperSync

2013-08-29T14:15:31Z

Chris: /* What is HyperSync? */

{{recommended reading|High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.

In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
<br/>
<br/>

==What is HyperSync?==

[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-Sync while using studio strobes.

Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level and how it differs from HSS.

===Understanding HyperSync===

You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.

For an in-depth look at how these features look, pleas visit the following page:

* [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Setup==
[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]

HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:

[[HyperSync_Setup|HyperSync Setup]]

<br clear=all>

==When to Use HyperSync==

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.

===Freezing Action===
[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.]]

The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.

<br clear=all>

===Overpowering the Sun===
[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.

<br clear=all>

===More Power===
[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.

Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs. You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting our page on [[Clipping and Gradient]].

{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br clear=all>

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-22T22:15:05Z

Chris: /* Effects on HyperSync */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2 power">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/2 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_full_timing.JPG|580EX II at 1/2 power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-22T22:14:38Z

Chris: /* Effects on HyperSync */

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync at +2">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/1 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_full_timing.JPG|580EX II at ½ power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes

2013-08-22T22:13:47Z

Chris: Created page with "{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}} __TOC__ <br /> ==Variable Voltage Control== Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the out..."

{{recommended reading|Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />

==Variable Voltage Control==

Many studio strobes use variable voltage to control the output of the flashtube. This means that the amount of energy emitted from the flashtube is varied to generate different power levels. Full power emits a flash curve with a tall “peak” of flash energy output, and a diminishing “tail.”

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

Lower power levels still have a tall peak energy output, and a diminishing tail, but the tail may diminish over a longer or shorter period of time, and the peak may not be so abrupt (instantaneous) as compared to a higher power level.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|framless|Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power]]

<center>Typical Flash Duration Simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at lowest power</center>

When HyperSync is used with a voltage controlled flash, any power level can be used. Best results will happen at the longest duration, and we generally recommend full power for best results. You can see what effect voltage controlled flash power can have on HyperSync [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Power Level|by seeing our Power Level section of our Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync page.]]

==IGBT Power Control==

Some studio strobes (and all speedlights) use a device called an IGBT to control their power output. IGBT stands for “Isolated-gate bipolar transistor.” This is a high speed switch that is designed to turn power on and off rapidly.

At full power, the IGBT is not engaged, and the flash fully discharges its capacitors.

[[File:580ex_II_full.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/1 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/1 power</center>

At power levels lower than full power, the IGBT shuts off the flashtube before the capacitors in the flash have emitted all their power. The voltage sent to the flash tube before the IGBT engages is the same as at full power until the IGBT is engaged. When shown in graph form, an IGBT-controlled pulse looks like a full power pulse with the tail portion cut off.

[[File:580ex_ii_half.JPG|400px|center|frameless|580EX II at 1/2 power]]
<center>580EX II at 1/2 power</center>

The same thing happens with the Einstein E-640 and other IGBT controlled studio strobes.

[[File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG‎|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at full power</center>

[[File:Einstein_-1.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Einstein E640 at -1 from full power]]
<center>Einstein E640 at -1 from full power</center>

===Effects on HyperSync===

This IGBT method of power control allows for very short flash durations. At X-sync, motion blur from flash is reduced with shorter flash durations. However, very short flash durations are not beneficial to HyperSync. Because there is no flash “tail,” the camera cannot expose the entire sensor across some portion of the flash duration. When using HyperSync, only a small band of light will be illuminated in the middle of the frame. This band becomes smaller the lower the power level used on the flash or Speedlight.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

Because of the effect the IGBT has on HyperSync results, we recommend that Speedlight users who need to adjust power above X-sync to use [[High Speed Sync|High Speed Sync or FP-Mode instead.]]

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="HyperSync vs High Speed Sync: Difference between +3 and +2">
File:8000_580_EX_II_+3_HSS.jpg
File:8000._580_EX_II_+2_HyperSync.jpg
File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg‎|580EX II at 1/1 power with High Speed Sync.
File:580EX_II_full_timing.JPG|580EX II at ½ power with HyperSync. 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11 ISO 1000
</gallery></center>

File:580EX II full timing.JPG

2013-08-22T21:34:47Z

Chris: 580EX II 1/1 power

580EX II 1/1 power

File:8000. 580 EX II +2 HyperSync.jpg

2013-08-22T21:32:33Z

Chris: 580EX II +2 with HyperSync 1/8000th

580EX II +2 with HyperSync 1/8000th

File:8000 580 EX II +3 HSS.jpg

2013-08-22T21:29:36Z

Chris: 580 EX II +3 High Speed Sync 1/8000th

580 EX II +3 High Speed Sync 1/8000th

File:8000 580 EXII HyperSync.jpg

2013-08-22T21:28:31Z

Chris: 580EX II at Full power 1/8000th

580EX II at Full power 1/8000th

File:Einstein -1.JPG

2013-08-22T21:23:12Z

Chris: Einstein E640 at -1 stop from full

Einstein E640 at -1 stop from full

Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync

2013-08-22T21:22:03Z

Chris: /* Use with IGBT-controlled strobes */

{{recommended reading|HyperSync|}}

'''This section describes how HyperSync and High Speed Sync work at a basic level. Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync for your configuration.'''

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.

While the flash appears instantaneous to our eyes, it actually has duration and variance. These are important to the camera’s sensor, especially at faster shutter speeds.

At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.

At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor. At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.

High Speed Sync (HSS or Auto-FP sync) begins pulsing the flash before the first curtain opens and continues to pulse it until after the second curtain closes. From the camera’s perspective this pulsed light appears as continuous light during the exposure. HSS uses a lot of energy, however, which means there is less light available for the image, and is usually only available in lower powered Speedlites/Speedlights. Syncing up to 1/8000 is possible, but the flash must be very close to the subject.

HyperSync uses a normal flash of light, which has much more energy in it compared to pulsed HSS. HyperSync also uses precision timing to align the flash’s duration and output curve with the moving shutter curtains. This allows more light in the image than HSS can provide, and works with higher powered flashes like studio flash packs and monolights. Different flash and camera combinations yield different shutter speed and light output performance, but most combinations will get worthwhile benefits using HyperSync.

Other techniques, like the "HSS Hack" (with or without a manually dialed in delay), can sometimes get a normal flash of light from a studio pack into an exposure taken at faster shutter speeds, but these methods are less precise than HyperSync, lack automation, and are more limited to which camera and flash combinations yield usable results.

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

== How Does a Flash Work? ==

A flash is designed to emit a very intense light for a short duration of time. This is done by filling a flashtube with xenon gas, and then using a charged capacitor to energize the xenon with a very high amount of electrical current. This produces the light that flashes use to illuminate a scene. You can visualize a single flash event as “light over time,” plotted as a curve. The peak has the highest amount of energy emitted but energy continues to be emitted at a decreasing rate so long as the xenon gas is energized. This drop in energy (and therefore light output) creates the “tail” of the curve.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

While appearing to be instantly turned on and instantly turned off again, a flashtube can be excited for anywhere from 1 microsecond to tens of milliseconds. Most consumer flashes usually average around 1 millisecond, with some being longer, and some being shorter.

== How Does a Shutter Work? ==

A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

[[File:X-SyncShutter.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter at X-sync</center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.

[[File:MediumShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter above X-sync]</center>

The faster the shutter speed, the smaller the slit:

[[File:FastestShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>Faster shutter speeds have smaller slits</center>

== X-sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==

=== A flash directly connected to a camera ===

Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

A camera triggering a flash at X-sync follows this timeline:

# The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom. The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Some microseconds of time pass. The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The second curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-sync">
File:X-sync_shutter_sequence.JPG|Shutter Sequence at X-sync
File:5DMarkII_1.200.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/200th f/22. This is a photo of a white wall to demonstrate no clipping or gradation.
</gallery></center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync work differently. A camera triggering a flash above X-sync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain begins expose the sensor as it moves from top to bottom.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-sync.)
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The moving slit is exposed to the flash.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at 1/8000th With a Sync Cord">
File:Non-hypersync_1.8000.JPG|border|Sync Cord Timing Sequence at 1/8000th
File:IMG 4812.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22. This photo shows a tiny sliver of white flash exposure at the top, while the rest of the sensor has been blocked by the second curtain.
</gallery></center>

The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.

The PlusX, Plus III, or MultiMAX have a mode to reduce this delay, called [[Transmit Only]]. A receiving Plus III can use [[FAST mode]] to reduce processing time.

== [[High Speed Sync]] ==

High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.

A camera and flash using HSS/Auto-FP follow this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The speedlight begins to pulse light just before the first curtain begins to move.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The speedlight continues to pulse.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor.
#The speedlight stops pulsing.

[[File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg|400px|center|frameless|HSS Pulses at various shutter speeds within the Canon Optical communications system]]

<center>600EX-RT's HSS Performance at 1/8000th in a 1D Mark III's shoe without any radios</center>

HSS/Auto FP requires a speedlight. Studio strobes are not capable of pulsing light. HSS requires special timing information from the camera. This information is communicated through the TTL pins of a camera's hot shoe. A normal studio flash cannot perform the light pulse technique.

HSS exposures will not be as bright as standard single-pop flashes, because the available energy is divided among all the pulses over exposure time. The pulsed light requires more energy than non-pulsed flash. Flashes using HSS may need to be positioned closer to a subject.

== [[HyperSync]] ==

A normal, non-HSS flash is more efficient at delivering light to a subject than an HSS (pulsed) flash. As a result, flashes may be positioned farther from a subject.

HyperSync uses special camera communication to trigger a normal flash before the first curtain opens. It can also eliminate the delay introduced by a typical radio trigger. The timing can be optimized for some flashes based on the user’s wishes.

A camera triggering a flash with HyperSync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The attached MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 senses exactly when the shutter will fire, and then fires the flash early.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit. The faster the shutter speed is set the smaller the slit will become.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.

HyperSync requires a ControlTL transmitter like the [[Nikon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] or [[Canon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]. Optimizing HyperSync Automation require a ControlTL receiver like the [[PowerMC2]], [[PowerST4]], or [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]]. All transmitter HyperSync adjustments are made in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]]. Any PocketWizard radio can be used as a receiver and be triggered from the ControlTL transmitter's HyperSync timing. You will see the best results using a ControlTL receiver.

There are two methods of using HyperSync Automation available on a ControlTL receiver: [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] and [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]]. The two methods choose different flash firing times relative to the camera's shutters opening.

===Reduced Clipping===

Reduced Clipping attempts to keep bottom frame clipping out of your images. Reduced Clipping may result in a gradient across the image. Gradation means the photo is lighter at the bottom and darker at the top. The results are very usable in many situations.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Reduced Clipping">
File:Reduced_clipping_offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Reduced Clipping"
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Reduced Clipping benefits photographers:

*Shooting outdoors where the sky is a major factor in the top part of the image
*Using aperture priority in conditions that cause the shutter speed to go above X-sync
*In any situation where the full frame must be used and cropping is not an option

"Reduced Clipping" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown in on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page. This is the factory default setting.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Highest Energy ===

Highest Energy attempts to get as much flash energy into the image as possible. This will reduce gradation at lower HyperSync speeds, however it can result in black bars or clipping in the frame at the highest shutter speeds. For many situations this can yield useful results as clipping can be cropped out of the image, or the clipping area is exposed by ambient light primiarily.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Highest Energy">
File:Highest energy offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Highest Energy"
File:IMG 4015.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Highest Energy benefits photographers:

*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-sync
*Who need as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, longer flash durations are better)
*Where gradation is not acceptable
*In any situation where cropping is an option

"Highest Energy" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Factors to consider ===

There are many factors that may impact HyperSync performance.

==== Flash Duration ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Flash Duration Makes With Otherwise Matching Equipment">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXA RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (A Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/1150
File:Ranger_RX_A-head_7.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX A Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2300
</gallery></center>

==== Power Level ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Power Level has on Flash Duration">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXS RC -3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at lowest power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Highest Power
File:Ranger_RX_S-Head_1.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Lowest Power
</gallery></center>

==== Use with IGBT-controlled strobes ====

*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash used for HyperSync will need to be used at full power. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_full_timing.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

==== Camera Choice ====

*Cameras with larger and slower shutters can produce more noticeable gradation. Cameras with faster moving shutters and smaller sensors can improve HyperSync success by minimizing gradation. Faster or slower moving shutters are not the same as your camera's shutter speed setting.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Camera Choice">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(Slower Shutter)'''
File:1DMarkIVRangerRXS RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 1D Mark IV 1/8000th f/22 '''(Faster Shutter)'''
</gallery></center>

*Some cameras allow enough time for HyperSync to fire before the camera moves its first shutter. Some do not. Different combinations yield different results.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Communication Time Limitation">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Canon 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(More Communication Time)'''
File:D3RangerRXS_RC_+3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Nikon D3 1/8000th f/22 (HyperSync Only Enabled)''' (Less Communication Time)'''
</gallery></center>

File:Einstein full timing.JPG

2013-08-22T21:21:19Z

Chris: Einstein E640 full power flash duration

Einstein E640 full power flash duration

File:580ex ii half.JPG

2013-08-22T21:18:04Z

Chris: 580EX II at 1/2 power - flash duration

580EX II at 1/2 power - flash duration

File:580ex II full.JPG

2013-08-22T21:16:09Z

Chris: 580EX II full power flash duration

580EX II full power flash duration

Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync

2013-08-22T21:02:35Z

Chris: /* Factors to consider */

{{recommended reading|HyperSync|}}

'''This section describes how HyperSync and High Speed Sync work at a basic level. Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync for your configuration.'''

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

When shooting with flash, there are different methods of synchronizing the flash with a camera’s shutter. These methods depend primarily on the shutter speed and flashes you use.

While the flash appears instantaneous to our eyes, it actually has duration and variance. These are important to the camera’s sensor, especially at faster shutter speeds.

At shutter speeds slower than X-sync, usually 1/200 or slower, a normal flash of light is all that is required; the first curtain of the shutter opens, the flash fires for its flash duration, and the second curtain of the shutter closes.

At shutter speeds faster than X-sync (usually 1/250 through 1/8000) the time between the shutter’s first curtain opening and second curtain closing is not long enough for a normal flash of light to complete its duration. At the fastest shutter speeds, the shutter’s curtains are moving at the same time, exposing a moving slit of light across the sensor. At these shutter speeds, other flash techniques must be used.

High Speed Sync (HSS or Auto-FP sync) begins pulsing the flash before the first curtain opens and continues to pulse it until after the second curtain closes. From the camera’s perspective this pulsed light appears as continuous light during the exposure. HSS uses a lot of energy, however, which means there is less light available for the image, and is usually only available in lower powered Speedlites/Speedlights. Syncing up to 1/8000 is possible, but the flash must be very close to the subject.

HyperSync uses a normal flash of light, which has much more energy in it compared to pulsed HSS. HyperSync also uses precision timing to align the flash’s duration and output curve with the moving shutter curtains. This allows more light in the image than HSS can provide, and works with higher powered flashes like studio flash packs and monolights. Different flash and camera combinations yield different shutter speed and light output performance, but most combinations will get worthwhile benefits using HyperSync.

Other techniques, like the "HSS Hack" (with or without a manually dialed in delay), can sometimes get a normal flash of light from a studio pack into an exposure taken at faster shutter speeds, but these methods are less precise than HyperSync, lack automation, and are more limited to which camera and flash combinations yield usable results.

=== What HyperSync results can I get with my camera and flash? ===

Thankfully, we have done a lot of the work for you by sharing images that we have captured using as many combinations of camera and flash model as possible. Our examples are available below. Simply click on your camera and find the flash that you wish to use with HyperSync. There are countless combinations of flashes and cameras in the world, and we will add more cameras and flashes as time goes by. If you don't see your equipment, feel free to contact us directly: http://www.pocketwizard.com/contact/inquiry/

<center>
{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}
</center>

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

<br />

{{Don't see your gear?}}

== How Does a Flash Work? ==

A flash is designed to emit a very intense light for a short duration of time. This is done by filling a flashtube with xenon gas, and then using a charged capacitor to energize the xenon with a very high amount of electrical current. This produces the light that flashes use to illuminate a scene. You can visualize a single flash event as “light over time,” plotted as a curve. The peak has the highest amount of energy emitted but energy continues to be emitted at a decreasing rate so long as the xenon gas is energized. This drop in energy (and therefore light output) creates the “tail” of the curve.

[[File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|400px|center|frameless|Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power]]

<center>Typical flash duration simulation - Ranger RX pack with the S head at full power</center>

While appearing to be instantly turned on and instantly turned off again, a flashtube can be excited for anywhere from 1 microsecond to tens of milliseconds. Most consumer flashes usually average around 1 millisecond, with some being longer, and some being shorter.

== How Does a Shutter Work? ==

A camera’s shutter has two curtains that cover the sensor. When you press the shutter button, the first curtain moves, exposing the sensor. Next, the second curtain moves, finishing the exposure. Your first curtain opens all the way before the second curtain starts to move. This fully exposes the camera’s sensor. Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture a normal flash duration across the entire exposure all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

[[File:X-SyncShutter.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter at X-sync</center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync act differently. The first curtain begins to move downwards. Before they reach the bottom, the second curtain begins to move. This creates a moving slit.

[[File:MediumShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>A simulated shutter above X-sync]</center>

The faster the shutter speed, the smaller the slit:

[[File:FastestShuttersAboveX-Sync.gif|center]]
<center>Faster shutter speeds have smaller slits</center>

== X-sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits ==

=== A flash directly connected to a camera ===

Your camera has a limit where it can fully open its shutter and capture flash across the entire sensor all at once. This is your camera’s X-sync limit.

A camera triggering a flash at X-sync follows this timeline:

# The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom. The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Some microseconds of time pass. The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The second curtain moves from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at X-sync">
File:X-sync_shutter_sequence.JPG|Shutter Sequence at X-sync
File:5DMarkII_1.200.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/200th f/22. This is a photo of a white wall to demonstrate no clipping or gradation.
</gallery></center>

Shutter speeds above X-sync work differently. A camera triggering a flash above X-sync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The first curtain begins expose the sensor as it moves from top to bottom.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe. (Many cameras do not provide this sync output above X-sync.)
#The flash emits light for its flash duration. The time this happens can be any amount of time up to a few milliseconds.
#The moving slit is exposed to the flash.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor

When a camera connected directly to a flash via sync cable is used above X-sync the second curtain blocks part of the sensor from being exposed to light. This shows up as a black band, or clipping.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Timing Sequence at 1/8000th With a Sync Cord">
File:Non-hypersync_1.8000.JPG|border|Sync Cord Timing Sequence at 1/8000th
File:IMG 4812.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22. This photo shows a tiny sliver of white flash exposure at the top, while the rest of the sensor has been blocked by the second curtain.
</gallery></center>

The timing sequence has tighter tolerances at X-sync compared to slower speeds. This tighter tolerance and the radio processing delay moves the moment the sensor sees the flash. Since the second curtain has started to move a small bit, on a very small number of cameras you get shadowing or clipping in your exposure. Flashes with long durations can show clipping at X-sync. Cameras with slow shutters can show clipping at X-sync. To get rid of clipping, you may have to use a slower shutter speed.

The PlusX, Plus III, or MultiMAX have a mode to reduce this delay, called [[Transmit Only]]. A receiving Plus III can use [[FAST mode]] to reduce processing time.

== [[High Speed Sync]] ==

High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-only technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.

A camera and flash using HSS/Auto-FP follow this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The speedlight begins to pulse light just before the first curtain begins to move.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit that moves across the sensor. The faster your shutter speed, the smaller the slit becomes.
#The speedlight continues to pulse.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The second curtain in the camera closes and both curtains reset to the top of the sensor.
#The speedlight stops pulsing.

[[File:FP_Sync_Optical.jpg|400px|center|frameless|HSS Pulses at various shutter speeds within the Canon Optical communications system]]

<center>600EX-RT's HSS Performance at 1/8000th in a 1D Mark III's shoe without any radios</center>

HSS/Auto FP requires a speedlight. Studio strobes are not capable of pulsing light. HSS requires special timing information from the camera. This information is communicated through the TTL pins of a camera's hot shoe. A normal studio flash cannot perform the light pulse technique.

HSS exposures will not be as bright as standard single-pop flashes, because the available energy is divided among all the pulses over exposure time. The pulsed light requires more energy than non-pulsed flash. Flashes using HSS may need to be positioned closer to a subject.

== [[HyperSync]] ==

A normal, non-HSS flash is more efficient at delivering light to a subject than an HSS (pulsed) flash. As a result, flashes may be positioned farther from a subject.

HyperSync uses special camera communication to trigger a normal flash before the first curtain opens. It can also eliminate the delay introduced by a typical radio trigger. The timing can be optimized for some flashes based on the user’s wishes.

A camera triggering a flash with HyperSync follows this timeline:

#The shutter button is pressed.
#Several milliseconds of time pass. This is called lag time. The amount of lag time varies from camera to camera.
#The attached MiniTT1 or FlexTT5 senses exactly when the shutter will fire, and then fires the flash early.
#The first curtain begins to move from the top of the sensor to the bottom.
#The camera’s sensor is exposed.
#Before the first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor, the second curtain begins to move. The space between the first and second curtain is a small slit. The faster the shutter speed is set the smaller the slit will become.
#The first curtain reaches the bottom of the sensor.
#The camera triggers its PC terminal and the center sync pin on the hot shoe.

HyperSync requires a ControlTL transmitter like the [[Nikon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]] or [[Canon MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]. Optimizing HyperSync Automation require a ControlTL receiver like the [[PowerMC2]], [[PowerST4]], or [[AC9 AlienBees Adapter]]. All transmitter HyperSync adjustments are made in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] on the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]]. Any PocketWizard radio can be used as a receiver and be triggered from the ControlTL transmitter's HyperSync timing. You will see the best results using a ControlTL receiver.

There are two methods of using HyperSync Automation available on a ControlTL receiver: [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] and [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]]. The two methods choose different flash firing times relative to the camera's shutters opening.

===Reduced Clipping===

Reduced Clipping attempts to keep bottom frame clipping out of your images. Reduced Clipping may result in a gradient across the image. Gradation means the photo is lighter at the bottom and darker at the top. The results are very usable in many situations.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Reduced Clipping">
File:Reduced_clipping_offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Reduced Clipping"
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Reduced Clipping benefits photographers:

*Shooting outdoors where the sky is a major factor in the top part of the image
*Using aperture priority in conditions that cause the shutter speed to go above X-sync
*In any situation where the full frame must be used and cropping is not an option

"Reduced Clipping" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown in on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page. This is the factory default setting.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Reduced Clipping|Reduced Clipping]] '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''highest''' shutter speeds.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Highest Energy ===

Highest Energy attempts to get as much flash energy into the image as possible. This will reduce gradation at lower HyperSync speeds, however it can result in black bars or clipping in the frame at the highest shutter speeds. For many situations this can yield useful results as clipping can be cropped out of the image, or the clipping area is exposed by ambient light primiarily.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Highest Energy">
File:Highest energy offset.JPG|HyperSync Offset for "Highest Energy"
File:IMG 4015.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
</gallery></center>

Highest Energy benefits photographers:

*Using HyperSync speeds just above X-sync
*Who need as much action stopping flash power in the image as possible (remember that for HyperSync, longer flash durations are better)
*Where gradation is not acceptable
*In any situation where cropping is an option

"Highest Energy" is selected on the ControlTL receiver, as shown on the [[HyperSync Setup#All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation|All ControlTL Radios – HyperSync Automation]] page.

*You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] '''manually''' with a non-ControlTL compatible flash by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the Receiving FlexTT5 P2 Port|FlexTT5 P2 Port]] and trying to eliminate clipping at '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.
* You can achieve similar results to [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#Highest Energy|Highest Energy]] HyperSync '''manually''' with a radio receiving on a [[Channels#Standard Channels|Standard Channel]] (meaning a ([[Plus II]], [[Plus III]], [[PlusX]], [[MultiMAX]], [[Misc_Tab#Basic_Trigger|FlexTT5 in Basic Trigger Mode]]), or internal PocketWizard receiver built in to your flash.) This is done by following the directions for the [[HyperSync Setup#How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels|How to Configure the ControlTL Transmitter - HyperSync Flash Duration For Standard Channels]] section, and trying to eliminate clipping at your '''lower''' HyperSync speeds without "clipping" visible at the bottom of your frame.

Note: Using Speedlites or the Einstein E-640 for HyperSync with HyperSync is most effective at full power with these flashes because of their IGBT design. HSS/Auto-FP is suggested for users shooting above X-sync with Speedlites. You can read more about IGBT designed flashes here: http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

'''''Read the [[HyperSync Setup]] page for more detailed information on how to adjust HyperSync.'''''

=== Factors to consider ===

There are many factors that may impact HyperSync performance.

==== Flash Duration ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Flash Duration Makes With Otherwise Matching Equipment">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXA RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (A Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/1150
File:Ranger_RX_A-head_7.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX A Head Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2300
</gallery></center>

==== Power Level ====

*Flash duration is a critical factor in HyperSync performance. The flash duration is the length of time from when your flashtube is first energized to when it is no longer emitting energy. Longer flash durations are better. You may want to compare t.5 times from flash manufacturers to see how long or short your flash is compared to others.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Difference Power Level has on Flash Duration">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:5DIIRangerRXS RC -3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at lowest power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22
File:Ranger RX 7.5 Power Flash Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Highest Power
File:Ranger_RX_S-Head_1.5_Power_Flash_Duration.JPG|Ranger RX S Head Flash Duration Shape - Lowest Power
</gallery></center>

==== Use with IGBT-controlled strobes ====

*A Speedlight, Einstein E640, or other IGBT-controlled flash used for HyperSync will need to be used at full power. Power levels less than full will result in clipping at the top and bottom due to the way IGBT-controlled flashes adjust flash duration for power control. To read more about how IGBT-controlled flashes differ from other types of flashes, see the [[IGBT-controlled flashes vs. Voltage-controlled flashes]] page.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="IGBT-controlled flash at 1/1 power and 1/2 power">
File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG|Einstein E640 at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:5D_Mark_II_Einstein-1Stops.JPG|Einstein E640 (with PowerMC2) -1 stop from full, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/11
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_Full.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/2000th
File:Einstein_FlashDuration_-1.JPG|Einstein E640 Flash Duration Shape t.5=1/4000th (estimated)
</gallery></center>

==== Camera Choice ====

*Cameras with larger and slower shutters can produce more noticeable gradation. Cameras with faster moving shutters and smaller sensors can improve HyperSync success by minimizing gradation. Faster or slower moving shutters are not the same as your camera's shutter speed setting.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Camera Choice">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(Slower Shutter)'''
File:1DMarkIVRangerRXS RC +3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, 1D Mark IV 1/8000th f/22 '''(Faster Shutter)'''
</gallery></center>

*Some cameras allow enough time for HyperSync to fire before the camera moves its first shutter. Some do not. Different combinations yield different results.

<center><gallery perrow=2 widths=300px caption="Communication Time Limitation">
File:IMG_0282.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Canon 5D Mark II 1/8000th f/22 '''(More Communication Time)'''
File:D3RangerRXS_RC_+3.JPG|Ranger RX (S Head) at full power, Nikon D3 1/8000th f/22 (HyperSync Only Enabled)''' (Less Communication Time)'''
</gallery></center>

File:Einstein FlashDuration -1.JPG

2013-08-22T21:00:07Z

Chris: Einstein E640's flash duration at -1 stops from full

Einstein E640's flash duration at -1 stops from full

File:Einstein FlashDuration Full.JPG

2013-08-22T20:50:55Z

Chris: Einstein E-640 Flash Duration at full power

Einstein E-640 Flash Duration at full power

File:5D Mark II Einstein-1Stops.JPG

2013-08-22T20:43:03Z

Chris: Einstein E-640 1 stop down from full power. 5D Mark II, ISO 50, 1/8000th f/22

Einstein E-640 1 stop down from full power. 5D Mark II, ISO 50, 1/8000th f/22

File:5DMarkIIEinsteinFullPower.JPG

2013-08-22T20:42:07Z

Chris: Einstein E-640 at 1/1 power with PowerMC2. 5D Mark II, ISO 200, 1/8000th, f/11

Einstein E-640 at 1/1 power with PowerMC2. 5D Mark II, ISO 200, 1/8000th, f/11

HyperSync

2013-08-22T17:59:03Z

Chris: /* HyperSync Setup */

{{recommended reading|High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.

In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
<br/>
<br/>

==What is HyperSync?==

[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-Sync while using studio strobes.

Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level and how it differs from HSS.

===Understanding HyperSync===

You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.

For an in-depth look at how these features look, pleas visit the following page:

[[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Setup==
[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]

HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:

[[HyperSync_Setup|HyperSync Setup]]

<br clear=all>

==When to Use HyperSync==

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.

===Freezing Action===
[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.]]

The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.

<br clear=all>

===Overpowering the Sun===
[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.

<br clear=all>

===More Power===
[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.

Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs. You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting our page on [[Clipping and Gradient]].

{{C HATT}}
{{N HATT}}

{{Don't see your gear?}}

<br clear=all>

HyperSync

2013-08-22T17:58:27Z

Chris: /* HyperSync Setup */

{{recommended reading|High Speed Sync|}}

__TOC__
<br />
{{Fast Page}}
<br />

On this page you will find everything you need to know about HyperSync®, and how to make it a valuable tool you can rely on.

In the sections below you will be introduced to the main principles of HyperSync and how you might use it in your own photography. There are links to additional pages with in-depth information explaining how HyperSync works, how to set up your radios for HyperSync, and some example images illustrating the results you can expect.
<br/>
<br/>

==What is HyperSync?==

[[File:PW HyperSync GarthMilan 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Garth Milan: “I was using a single Elinchrom Ranger power pack, along with an Elinchrom Ranger (S head, I believe). I only had the one pack and head, as I had to hike quite a ways back for this shoot. And yes, I use the PowerST4."]]

HyperSync is a feature exclusive to PocketWizard radios that allows you to shoot at speeds faster than your cameras X-Sync while using studio strobes.

Unlike HSS/Auto-FP (High Speed Sync) which allows speedlights to sync up to 1/8000th with pulsed light, HyperSync uses precise timing to capture the most flash energy in the frame. If you are curious about how HyperSync works on a more scientific level and how it differs from HSS.

===Understanding HyperSync===

You can see real world examples of HyperSync usage from professional working photographers throughout these pages. You can click on the photos for camera and exposure information.

For an in-depth look at how these features look, pleas visit the following page:

[[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync]]

<br clear=all>

==HyperSync Setup==
[[File:PRW0513 PWHyperSync072 v2.jpg|thumb|400px|Pete Webb: “I used 2 Elinchrom Ranger RX packs, with 'S' heads, with a MiniTT1 on the Canon 5D Mark III and FlexTT5's on the rangers.”]]

HyperSync timing adjustments can only be calculated by our ControlTL line of transmitters ([[MiniTT1 and FlexTT5]]), but can be used by any of our Standard or ControlTL receivers.

Depending on what you are photographing and what equipment you are using there are several different ways to optimize your radios.

To learn how to use the [[HyperSync/HSS Tab]] located in the [[PocketWizard Utility]] to configure your radios for optimal HyperSync performance with your photo equipment, please visit the following page:

[[HyperSync_Setup|Visit the HyperSync Setup page]]

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==When to Use HyperSync==

HyperSync has been available since just after the introduction of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5, but we have found that there are still many photographers who don’t know how HyperSync can help them. Below are three of the most common uses of/reasons to use HyperSync.

===Freezing Action===
[[File:Garrison.jpg|thumb|400px|2 Elinchrom Ranger RX and S heads were used with PowerST4s for this photograph.]]

The ability to use flash above your cameras [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync#X-Sync - Flash behavior with normal sync limits|X-Sync]] (in some cases up to 1/8000th!) allows you to freeze action like never before. With HyperSync you can light fast moving subjects without worrying about motion blur; be it on the sports field, dance floor, or in the studio.

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===Overpowering the Sun===
[[File:Pocketwizard-olli-krause-02.jpg|thumb|200px|Olli Krause:“HyperSync is a nice and easy way to get around the X-Sync time of your camera and put the control of the light back into your hands. Shooting with up to 1/8000 sec and a wide open aperture around f/2 is lots of fun.”]]

When using HyperSync you can reduce the ambient light apparent in your photograph by using higher shutter speeds, but still achieve sync with studio strobes. This means in bright sunlight you can darken the ambient light in the background. Being able to achieve higher shutter speeds also allows you to use a wider aperture. A wider aperture allows for a shallower depth of field. More control over both the ambient light and the depth of field means more creative control for you in any situation.

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===More Power===
[[File:Eric Seo 20130516 S D'Artois 010.jpg|thumb|400px|Erik Seo: "Elinchrom Ranger RX AS Speed pack with an A-Head. I was using a FlexTT5 as both a transmitter and receiver. You can see the little flash head cover it was sitting in, bottom right hand side of the big jump wedge. No other lighting was used on that particular photo."]]

Photographers have been able to reach shutter speeds of 1/8000th with speedlites with HSS/Auto-FP for years, but one of the biggest differences between [[Understanding HyperSync and High Speed Sync|HSS and HyperSync]] is power. Studio strobes are able to provide much more flash power. This gives the option of lighting larger subjects at higher shutter speeds with the flash further away.

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==HyperSync Performance with your Camera==
[[File:Motorcycle shot w logo and info.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/2.8]]
[[File:7d motorcycle gradient.jpg|thumb|Canon EOS 7D at 1/6400 F/11]]

One of the most common questions we receive about HyperSync is “What kind of results can I get with my gear?” We at PocketWizard have been testing HyperSync performance and recording the outcome of many of the most popular camera and flash combinations. To view the results for your gear select your camera from one of the grids below, and find your lighting system on the subsequent page. If you do not see your combination of camera and flash, check back again soon – we will be adding more combinations in the future.

Please note that white wall performance is presented so you can see the visual effects of the shutter and flash duration. White wall performance is often not representative of what HyperSync can do for your photography in real-world conditions. It is impossible to recreate every real-world situation in a testing environment, and not every photographer’s level of acceptability is the same. Many photographers find the gradient visible on the white wall blends into the environment when shot outside (see example to the left.) Others may correct for the gradient in post-production. Users will want to experiment to see what works best for their individual needs. You can read more about how to manage clipping and gradation in your images by visiting our page on [[Clipping and Gradient]].

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